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Asia

General

Note: There are alternative ways of spelling many names in Asian ranges.

• Central Asia overview map
• Maps of Central Asia. Large collection of good quality maps covering, Pamir, Tien Shan and Caucasus.

• Bonington, Chris & Salkeld, Audrey: World Mountaineering - The World's Greatest Mountains by the Worlds Greatest Mountaineers. Miller's Publications, 2006. Isbn: 1845331427.
• Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1994. Isbn: 0898863554.

Turkey

Turkey is a mostly mountainous country, with mountains bordering to the Mediterranean in the south, the Black Sea in the north, Aegean Sea in the west and a high, dry plateau in the interior part of the country. There is much variety among the mountains of Turkey, and the same can be said of Turkey's climate, as the damp coastal regions contrast with the dry inland plateau. Generally warm, comfortable temperatures prevail throughout Turkey, making for excellent year round hiking, though early Summer is the best season for the higher summits.

In the southern part of the country on the cost of Mediterranean Sea lie Taurus mountains. They presents a formidable crest-line of steep rocky peaks, dozens of which top 3000 meters.

In northern part of Turkey, close to Caspain Sea rise Pontic Mountains, which is actually a collection of several smaller ranges. Summits in the Pontics average from 3000m to 3600m.

Ida Mountains in northwestern Turkey on the coast of Aegean Sea, are volcanic in origin, and there are many hot springs in the foothills. This mountain area is the site of ancient Troy, and of the legendary events which led to the Trojan War.

The two highest mountains in Turkey, Mount Ararat (5165m) and Suphan Dagi (4434m) are isolated volcanoes in the extreme east of the country. Snow-capped Mount Ararat (5165m) rises in isolation above the surrounding plains and valleys in extreme northeast Turkey, 15km west of Iran, and 35km south of Armenia. Ararat is a holy mountain. Its sacredness comes from the Old Testament legend of Noah, whose ark came to rest on Ararat following the great flood. The second highest mountain Suphan Dagi (4434m) is located just north of Lake Van, Turkey's largest lake.

Caucasus

Caucasus range, extending 1200km between Black Sea in the west and Caspian Sea in the east, forms both geographic, ethnic and political barrier between Europe and Asia. North to south the range extends maximally 180km. Although it is the home to the highest mountains of the Europe, the area is relatively little known among western climbers, as the access was formerly difficult. There are seven peaks above 5000m. The Great Caucasus is traditionally divided into three regions - Western, Central and Eastern, with conventional borders coming through two highest peaks: Mt. Elbrus (5642m) to the west and Mt. Kazbek (5033m) to the east. <<more>>.

Tien Shan

Western Tien Shan/Ala-Archa Valley

Western Tien Shan is the most accessible part of the range. Here lies Kyrgyzskiy range, where well-known climbing area of Ala-Archa is located, just 40km away from Bishkek. The area is sheltered from warm southern winds, thus high mountains are excessively glaciated. Weather can be excellent from mid-June to mid-September with the best time for climbing on most routes being July-August while winter climbing is done in January and February (best time for some ice routes). Typical weather pattern is worsening in the afternoon and clearing in the evening. Several days of snowfalls and thick fog are possible, but then the three huts under the routes allow to sit it out.

Good quality climbing and comfortable approaches make the area the most frequented in the whole Tien Shan. The area has diverse routes ranging from entry-level routes (grade 1) up to serious big wall climbing (grade 6B) and involving ice, rock, or mixed ground. Rock is mainly granite and gneiss. As a rule it is solid, but shattered and rotten pitches are encountered as well. The highest peak in the region is Semyonov-Tien-Shan (4875m). Korona (4860m), Peak Free Korea (4740m) and Aktoo (4640m) are also popular among climbers.

Access to the valley is very easy. Ala-Archa Camp (2100m) can be reached from Bishkek by car (40km). It was onece the oldest and biggest of Soviet mountaineering camps. Nowadays it is run-down. From there there is a good path to Ratsek hut on the moraine of northern rand of Ak-Sai glacier at 3350m, 7km, 4-5h from Ala-Archa Camp. There are three other huts higher up the valley, one on Uchitel glacier under the north face first tower of Korona peak (and the spurs of Semyonov-Tien-Shan, 3-4h from Ratsek hut) and two at the junction of the Korona and Aksai glaciers (Korona Huts, ~3800m, 2-3h from Ratsek hut.

Forbidden Mountains pp.115-119

• Western Tien Shan map/Ala-Archa
• Map of Ala-Archa
• Ala-Archa

• Ak-Sai Information. Infoamation about access and cabins in Ala-Archa valley. At Climbing in the Kyrgyz Republic.
• Ak-Sai glacier. Information about climbing routes in Ala-Archa valley. At Climbing in the Kyrgyz Republic.
• Aksai valley. At Risk online.
• Ala-Archa gorge. Photo trip report. At K2 Adventures.
• Climbing near Bishkek. General Information about the climbing areas close to Bishkek. At Climbing in the Kyrgyz Republic.
• Description of the route to peaks. List of Routes in Ala-Archa Canyon (Aksay and Adyghene Glaciers). At Kyrgyz Alpine Club.
• Kyrgyz Range. List of Routes in Ala-Archa Canyon (Aksay and Adyghene Glaciers). At Kyrgyz Alpine Club.
• Western Tien-Shan - Ala-Archa region. Ala-Archa from the author of Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia (Vladimir Kopylov & P. Sicouri, 1994). The site includes information about the mountain range and about climbing routes on most significant peaks. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at mountains.tos.ru.

Northern Tien Shan

Northern Tien-Shan is extensive mountain system laying to north from the largest lake of Central Asia, Issyk-Kul, and to the south from Almaty city, which until recently was the capital of Kazakhstan. Here lies Zailiski Alatau range with popular Talgar Peak (5020m or 4937m).

• Northern Tien Shan map/Peak Talgar
• Alma Ata

• Mountaineering Routes. Route descriptions of climbing routes accessible from Alma Ata. At Morgana Travel Agency.
• Mountaineering Routes in the North Tien-Shan. At HeritageNet-Central Asia.

Central Tien Shan

Central Tien Shan consists of the mountain ranges that go from south and east of Lake Issyk Kul: Terskey Alatau, Sariddaz, Kuy-liu, Tengri-Tag, Engilchek, Kokshaal-Tau and Meridionalniy Khrebet. For climbers, this is the most fascinating area in Tien Shan. Access to these areas are usually either from Almaty or Bishkek (capital of Kyrgistan), both of which have international airports.

In the western part of Central Tien Shan, immediately south of Issyk-Kul lake, lies Karakol - Djeti-Oguz region. Here the best known mountains are Karakol (5218m), Djety-Oguz (5118m) and Dzhigit (5020m), all of which are approaches from Karakol alpine camp. Further south on okshaal-Tau ridge on Chinese border lies Dankova Group. The highest peak is Dankova (5982m).

Eastern part of Central Tien Shan is home to highest peaks. It is dominated by giants Pobeda peak (7439m) and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These are the two most northerly located 7000-meter mountains in the world, and they attract mountain climbers from all over the world. But it is really surprising that most of the peaks around them have not even been given a name.

• Central Tien Shan map/Karacol - Djeti-Oguz region
• Central Tien Shan map/Peak Pobeda
• Khan Tengri & Peak Pobeda

• Expedition on Tian-Shan. Ascents of Mt.Khan-Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobedy (Victory Peak, 7439m). Good maps and topos. By S. Kalmykov.

Internal Tien Shan

Internal Tien-Shan occupies an extensive zone of the central part of Kyrgyzstan, from Ak-Shiyrak range in east up to Fergana range in west and from Kyrgyz range in north up to Tarimskaya plain in China in the south. This extensive area unites about 30 ranges with heights up to 5000m between which are stretched magnificent middle-mountaineous and high-mountaineous valleys with relatively gently sloping ranges with set of easy accessible passes.

Tien Shan mountain range, meaning Heavenly Mountains, is 800 km wide and 2800 km long mountain system located in Central Asia northeast of Pamir and north of Kunlun Shan, extending from Uzbekistan to Mongoliaa. It is extended further north by the Bogda Mountains, and further still by the Altai Mountains along China's northern border. It includes more than thirty peaks close to, or over, 6000 meters above sea level, the predominant height of summits in the Tien Shan is 4000-5000m and passes range between heights of 3500-4500m. All the chains are ridges of the Tien Shan except the meridian one, run west-east and consists of four separated by natural features: the Central Tien Shan, the Northern and the Western and the Inner Tien Shan.

The Tien Shan is well glaciated: it has 7787 glaciers, the biggest one being the South Ingylchek glacier. The climate tends to be severe, it is characterized by sudden variations and frequent rainfall, phenomena connected to the vicinity of the Takla Makan desert. Especially northern parts of the range has very low temperatures. The snow line is at a much lower altitude than in the neighbouring Pamir (at around (3200m). Most suitable time for climbing the big peaks is July and August.

• Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola Pozzolini: Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia. Indutech, 1994. Isbn: 978-1-871890-88-4.
• Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1994. Isbn: 0898863554.

• (Tien Shan map and guide). EWP and GB, 1996. Isbn: 0-906227-61-5.
• Tien Shan overview ma
• Kazakhstan relief map
• Maps of Central Asia

• Pamir & Tien Shan. Information. At Asia Travel.
• Tien Shan. Tien Shan at Vladimir Kopylov's webpage. He is the author of Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia (Vladimir Kopylov & P. Sicouri, 1994). The site includes information about the mountain rage and about climbing routes on most significant mountains. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at mountains.tos.ru.
• Tien Shan. Region page. At Risk online.
• Tien Shan Mountain Range. List of most important peaks. At Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.

Pamir

Pamir range, called the roof of the world by Persians, is located in southern Central Asia. It is mainly located mainly in Tajikistan, but the northern slopes stretch to Kyrgyzstan, its western and southern slopes stretch to Afganistan and eastern slopes to China. It is roughly rectangular in shape, they are 280 km long north to south and about 420 km from west to east. The range is naturally bordered by Kyzyl-Su and Surkhob river valleys in the north, Sarykol ridge on the border between China and Tajikistan in the east, Pamir and Pyandzh rivers in the south and Pyandzh river and Western spurs of the Darvaz and Peter the First ridges on the west. The region is sometimes referred to as the Pamir Knot, as it is the central hub of great mountain ranges. On the West Pamir borders on Hindu Kush, on the south on Karakoram and Himalaya and on the east of Pamier lies Kunlun Shan and on the North-East Tien Shan.

Heavy snowfall and large glaciers accompany the high peaks in the Pamirs, and narrow glacier-fed lakes nestle in many of the valleys. Generally, however, the range below snowline receives minimal precipitation, and desert conditions prevail. The snow line rises from 3860m in the west to 5240m in the east. The optimal period for climbing in this region is July-August.

The Pamirs are divided in two halves by naturally occurring mountain features. Western Part of Pamir is home to high ridges and massive glaciers. Many peaks are more than 6000 meters high and three rise above 7000m. The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad deserted plateau 3500 to 4500m. Above these are sloping ridges, such as the Muzcol ridge, reaching heights of about 6000m.

• Child, Greg: Over the Edge - The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia, 1st edition. Villard, 2002. Isbn: 9780375506093.
• Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola Pozzolini: Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia. Indutech, 1994. Isbn: 978-1-871890-88-4.
• Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1994. Isbn: 0898863554.
• craig, Robert w.: Storm & Sorrow in the High Pamirs, Revised edition. Simon & Schuster, 1980. Isbn: 9780671251543.

• (Pamir-Trans Altai Mountains Map and Guide: Central Asia/Tajikistan). EWP and West Col Productions, 1995. Isbn: 906227-58-5.
• (Fann Mountains Map and Guide (Tadjikistan)). EWP and GB, 1994. Isbn: 0-906227-56-9.
• overview map of Pamir
• map of Zaalaiskiy Range
• Northern Pamir (Pik Lenin area)
• map of Northwestern Pamir/Peak Communism & Peak Korshenevskoy
• map of Central Western Pamir/Peak Revolution
• map of Southwestern Pamir
• Map of Muzkol. At EWP.
• Map of Kyrgyzstan. At Footprint Adventures.
• Maps of Central Asia. For Pamir, see Tajikistan, Pamir, Pamir-Alaj and Kyrgystan.

• Kyrgyzstan. Very good information packet about transport and formalities of Kyrgystan mountains.
• Pamir. Pamir at Vladimir Kopylov's webpage. He is the author of Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia (Vladimir Kopylov & P. Sicouri, 1994). The site includes information about the mountain range and about climbing routes on most significant mountains. An absolute must.
• Pamir & Tien Shan. Information at Asia Travel.
• Pamir Mountain Range. List of most important peaks at Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.
• The Pamir-Alai mountains. Region page at Risk.
• the Pamirs. Region page at Risk.

Trans-Alai

Zaalaiski ridge (or Trans-Alai) on the border between Kyrgystan and Tajikistan form the northernmost part of Pamir. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. Established base camp at Achik-Tash (3700m, accessible from Osh) is popular base for the climbers.

Northwestern Pamir

South of Zaalaisky Ridge lies Northwestern Pamir. The area is dominated by huge and heavily glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m), located at the junction of Peter the First and the Academy of Sciences Ridges and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m). Other important features include Peter the First ridge with Peak Moscow (Pik Moskva, 6785m), Darvaz ridge with Peak Arnavad (6083m), Vanch ridge and part of Yazgulem ridge. On Peak Communism, the rock is poor and the approach is difficult, but because it is the highest of all peaks in the region, climbers have been active on the mountain for decades, and a variety of routes exist to the summit.

Central Western Pamir

Central Western Pamir includes part of the Academy of Sciences ridge, Tynymas and the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky ridge (mountains of the southern group of Fedchenko glacier). Peak Revolution (Pik Revolutsii, 6974m), located on Yazgulem ridge, is the dominating peak of the area.

South Western Pamir

South Western Pamir was for centuries important trade route between East and West. It was here that the nomad populations traced the route that would later be called the Silk Road. Here lie Rushansky, Shugnansky, Ishkashimsky, Shakhdarinsky and South-Alichursky ridges. Most important peaks of the region include Paktor Peak (6080m), the Tadzhikistan (6565m), Moscovoskoy Pravdi and Tadzhikskiy Gosudarstvenniy Universitet (TGU, 6183m) peaks, two splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (formerly the Queen's Peak, 6510m).

Eastern Pamir

The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad flat plateau of 3500-4000 meters high and more occupies the eastern part of Pamir and stretches from its north to the south, being only once separated by Muzcol ridge.

Pamir-Alai

Pamir-Alai lies between higher Pamir and Tien-Shan mountains. This strip of mountains of length 750km and width up to 150km can be divided into a several areas suitable for trekking and mountaineering. Western part of the range is Fann Mountains (Fansky mountains), located in Western Tadjikistan just in 80kms far from ancient Samarkand. There are 11 summits above 5000m, the highest of them being Chimtorga (5480m). The area has alpine-style rock routes of medium grades and benefits from warm and stable weather. East of Fann mountains, between Fergana and Zeravshan valleys, lies Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys. The area is best known for large and steep granite faces. Propably the most famous peak in Pamir-Alai is Ak-Su (5355m) in Laylak Valley. In the heart of Pamir-Alai, on a joint of Turkestanski, Alaiski and Zeravshanski ranges lie Matcha. It is home to huge Zeravshanskiy glacier and the highest peak of Pamir-Alai, Skalisty (Rocky) peak (5621m). In the eastern part of the range, between Pamir and sunny Fergana valley, lies Alaiski range with more than 30 summits above 5000m.

Kunlun Shan

Kunlun Shan (or Kunlun/Kun-Lun) is a major mountain system of Asia, located along the north edge of the vast dry Tibetan plains in China about halfway between the Himalayas in the south and Tien Shan in the north. On the west side, it borders on Pamir. The highest mountains of the range are located in the narrow eastern part. There are several high peaks in the range with very difficult Kongur (7719m) being the highest. Technically easy Muztagh Ata (7546m) is by far the most climbed of the high peaks, it probably being the most popular of all 7000m peaks. Apart from Muztagh Ata, many mountains of the range are little known, remote and access is both difficult and takes a great deal of time. There are several unclimbed high peaks. Apart from the above mentioned, Muztag (7282m), Cholpanglik (7102m), Ulugh Muztagh (6987m), Bukadaban Feng (6860m), Chakragil (6727m) and Amne Machin (6282m) are probably the most important peaks. July and August are considered the best months for climbing.

• (Karakorum Highway Map). Cordee. Isbn: 0952171813.

• All peaks og Kongur - Muztagh Ata region greater than 6000m/list. By A Lebedev.
• All peaks og Kongur - Muztagh Ata region greater than 6000m/maps. By A Lebedev.
• Approach route from Bishkek. At CETneva.
• Approach route from Kashgar
• Kunlun Mountain Range. List of most important peaks. At Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.

Hindu Kush

Hindu Kush is located southwest of Pamir, more or less on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan. The Hindu Kush is one of the great watersheds of Central Asia, forming part of the vast Alpine zone that stretches across the continent from east to west. In the eastern part of the range, mountains are generally round and wide, and rise to around 5500m, low by central Asian standards. Western part has a cluster of high snowy peaks, twenty of which are 7000 meter summits. The highest mountain of the area is Tirich Mir (7690m). Compared to many other areas with high peaks, the weather is predictable and stable.

• Tirich Mir

• Area page. At SummitPost.

Karakoram

Karakoram (sometimes spelled Karakorum) lies in northeast Pakistan and Northern India , some 1500km west of Nepalase Himalayas and north of westernmost part of Himalaya, separated from it by the river of Indus. It is often regarded as a part of the Himalayas. The mountains in Karakoram typically have sharp, angular form and many of icy peaks are surrounded by wild towers and spires. Many mountains in Karakoram are very difficult to climb. The range has severe storms, especially K2 is known for harsh weather. On high mountains, June - August are usually most suitable months for climbing.

Majestically shaped K2 (8611m, world's second highest mountain) is the most famous mountain in Karakoram. Called mountaineer's mountain, it has no easy route, as every route features technically difficult climbing at high altitude. 8035m Gasherbrum II, The lowest of the four 8000m peaks of the range, on the other hand is considered as one of the easier 8000m peaks. It is located very close to Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, 8068) and these two share lower camps. Broad Peak is the fourth 8000m peak of the range. Besides 8000m giants, especially Ogre (7285m), Spantik (7028m) and Trango Tower (6231m) are legendary climbers' mountains.

• overview map
• overview map with ridges
• detailed map of Karakoram
• detailed map of Karakoram

• Karakoram. List of most important peaks. At Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.

Himalaya

Most of the worlds highest mountains are located in the vast and complex Himalayan range (that means The Land of Snow). It forms over 2000km broad crescent through Northeastern Pakistan (Punjab), Northern India (Garhwahl), Southern Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. It is bordered on the north by the plateau of Central Asia and on the south by the fertile plains of the India. Ten of the world's fourteen 8000-meter peaks are located in Himalaya (the remaining are located in Karakoram). <<more>>.

Chinese ranges

Besides the aforementioned ranges, there are several other ranges, especially in China. Mostly not much information is readily available and there is huge number of unclimbed high peaks.

• Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1994. Isbn: 0898863554.

Sichuan

In Sichuan province of Central China, east of the Himalaya, there are a series of parallel ranges stretching north-south. These ranges include the Hengduan, Taniantaweng, Ningjing, Shaluli, Chola, Daxue, and Qionglai. The highest mountains of these ranges is Minya Konka (7556m), 66th highest mountain of the world and the most easternly located 7000m peak. It is also the highest peak in China excluding autonomous regions.

Bodga range

Bogda range is located immediately northeast of Tien Shan range in western China. The heavily glaciated range forms the northern border of Turpan Depression, where elevation is 150m below sea level. The valleys on southern side of the range are hot, dry, very windy, and comparatively treeless, while the northern side is densely covered in forests. The highest peak of the range is Bogda Peak (or Bogda Feng, 5445m). Its close proximity to the local capital of Urumqi makes it a popular mountain for Chinese mountaineers.

Altai

Altai mountains are located in the region where Russia, Kazakhstan, China and Mongolia meet, north of Bogda range. Though Altai range is lower in altitude than many other ranges in Asia, it is very remote, and much time and planning are required for its approach. The highest mountain is Gora Belukha (or Belukla, 4506m).

Forbidden Mountains pp.99-101

Kamchatka

Japan