Langtang valley. Source: Canon Ixus 850IS, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) 2008 Ari Paulin. Shot on 2007-10-11 in Langtang valley, Rasuwa, Nepal (Google maps).
Note: There are alternative ways of spelling many names in Asian ranges.
Turkey is a mostly mountainous country, with mountains bordering to the Mediterranean in the south, the Black Sea in the north, Aegean Sea in the west and a high, dry plateau in the interior part of the country. There is much variety among the mountains of Turkey, and the same can be said of Turkey's climate, as the damp coastal regions contrast with the dry inland plateau. Generally warm, comfortable temperatures prevail throughout Turkey, making for excellent year round hiking, though early Summer is the best season for the higher summits.
In the southern part of the country on the cost of Mediterranean Sea lie Taurus mountains. They presents a formidable crest-line of steep rocky peaks, dozens of which top 3000 meters.
In northern part of Turkey, close to Caspain Sea rise Pontic Mountains, which is actually a collection of several smaller ranges. Summits in the Pontics average from 3000m to 3600m.
Ida Mountains in northwestern Turkey on the coast of Aegean Sea, are volcanic in origin, and there are many hot springs in the foothills. This mountain area is the site of ancient Troy, and of the legendary events which led to the Trojan War.
The two highest mountains in Turkey, Mount Ararat (5165m) and Suphan Dagi (4434m) are isolated volcanoes in the extreme east of the country. Snow-capped Mount Ararat (5165m) rises in isolation above the surrounding plains and valleys in extreme northeast Turkey, 15km west of Iran, and 35km south of Armenia. Ararat is a holy mountain. Its sacredness comes from the Old Testament legend of Noah, whose ark came to rest on Ararat following the great flood. The second highest mountain Suphan Dagi (4434m) is located just north of Lake Van, Turkey's largest lake.
Caucasus range, extending 1200km between Black Sea in the west and Caspian Sea in the east, forms both geographic, ethnic and political barrier between Europe and Asia. North to south the range extends maximally 180km. Although it is the home to the highest mountains of the Europe, the area is relatively little known among western climbers, as the access was formerly difficult. There are seven peaks above 5000m. The Great Caucasus is traditionally divided into three regions - Western, Central and Eastern, with conventional borders coming through two highest peaks: Mt. Elbrus (5642m) to the west and Mt. Kazbek (5033m) to the east. <<more>>.
Western Tien Shan is the most accessible part of the range. Here lies Kyrgyzskiy range, where well-known climbing area of Ala-Archa is located, just 40km away from Bishkek. The area is sheltered from warm southern winds, thus high mountains are excessively glaciated. Weather can be excellent from mid-June to mid-September with the best time for climbing on most routes being July-August while winter climbing is done in January and February (best time for some ice routes). Typical weather pattern is worsening in the afternoon and clearing in the evening. Several days of snowfalls and thick fog are possible, but then the three huts under the routes allow to sit it out.
Good quality climbing and comfortable approaches make the area the most frequented in the whole Tien Shan. The area has diverse routes ranging from entry-level routes (grade 1) up to serious big wall climbing (grade 6B) and involving ice, rock, or mixed ground. Rock is mainly granite and gneiss. As a rule it is solid, but shattered and rotten pitches are encountered as well. The highest peak in the region is Semyonov-Tien-Shan (4875m). Korona (4860m), Peak Free Korea (4740m) and Aktoo (4640m) are also popular among climbers.
Access to the valley is very easy. Ala-Archa Camp (2100m) can be reached from Bishkek by car (40km). It was onece the oldest and biggest of Soviet mountaineering camps. Nowadays it is run-down. From there there is a good path to Ratsek hut on the moraine of northern rand of Ak-Sai glacier at 3350m, 7km, 4-5h from Ala-Archa Camp. There are three other huts higher up the valley, one on Uchitel glacier under the north face first tower of Korona peak (and the spurs of Semyonov-Tien-Shan, 3-4h from Ratsek hut) and two at the junction of the Korona and Aksai glaciers (Korona Huts, ~3800m, 2-3h from Ratsek hut.
Forbidden Mountains pp.115-119
Located in the end of Ala-Archa valley. Korona is a group of six towers rising above the head of Korona glacier. Most climbed are 1st Tower (4810m), 5th Tower (4860m) and 6th Tower (4860m). NW side of first tower rises 750m from the glacier and has several difficult rock and ice routes. SW and W faces of 5th and 6th tower rise 800m from upper Ak-Sai glacier and have several very difficult routes.
Premiere mountaineering destination in Ala-Archa valley. Located in the southern end of Ak-Sai glacier, between Ak-Too and Dvurogaya. 900m high and 1000m wide north face has several classic ice and mixed climbs between grades 5A and 6B.
Located in Ala-Archa valley, to the east of Ratsek hut (3350m). North face has four rock pillars, classic Schwaba route giving seven pitches of rock climbing up to 5.9 (RUS 5A).
Located in Ala-Archa valley, west of Ak-Sai glacier between Peak Boks and Ak-Too.
Located close to Korona on the junction of Korona and Ak-Sai glaciers. Fantastic viewpoint of Korona amphitheater and impressive north face of Peak Free Korea.
Located in Ala-Archa valley, on the west side of Ak-Sai glacier opposite of Ratsek hut (3350m). Peak Boks is the northernmost peak on the western side of Ak-Sai.
Northern Tien-Shan is extensive mountain system laying to north from the largest lake of Central Asia, Issyk-Kul, and to the south from Almaty city, which until recently was the capital of Kazakhstan. Here lies Zailiski Alatau range with popular Talgar Peak (5020m or 4937m).
Located in Zailiski mountain range in Northern Tien Shan. It is located close to Kazakh city of Alma-Ata and due to its accessibility, is a popular mountaineering destination.
Central Tien Shan consists of the mountain ranges that go from south and east of Lake Issyk Kul: Terskey Alatau, Sariddaz, Kuy-liu, Tengri-Tag, Engilchek, Kokshaal-Tau and Meridionalniy Khrebet. For climbers, this is the most fascinating area in Tien Shan. Access to these areas are usually either from Almaty or Bishkek (capital of Kyrgistan), both of which have international airports.
In the western part of Central Tien Shan, immediately south of Issyk-Kul lake, lies Karakol - Djeti-Oguz region. Here the best known mountains are Karakol (5218m), Djety-Oguz (5118m) and Dzhigit (5020m), all of which are approaches from Karakol alpine camp. Further south on okshaal-Tau ridge on Chinese border lies Dankova Group. The highest peak is Dankova (5982m).
Eastern part of Central Tien Shan is home to highest peaks. It is dominated by giants Pobeda peak (7439m) and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These are the two most northerly located 7000-meter mountains in the world, and they attract mountain climbers from all over the world. But it is really surprising that most of the peaks around them have not even been given a name.
Peak Pobeda is the highest summit of over 30km long snow covered wall. It is the most northernly located 7000m peak of the world. The border between Kyrgystan and Russia run over the summit. Peak Pobeda has very bad and cold weather. Furthermore, all routes have severe avalanche danger. All northern routes start at base camp on Zviozdocha glacier (4050m), that is mostly reached with a helicopter from Bishkek. Chinese south side is called Mount Tomur and it is very different from nort side. However, it is also very difficult and dangerous to climb (RUS 5B). First successfull ascent was made by Chinese team in 1977. Generally accepted first ascent by a Soviet party led by Abalakov in 1956 via North Face. It is, however, possible, that a party from Komsomol reached the summit in 1936.
Forbidden Mountains pp.130-132; Maier pp.279-280
Located in eastern part of Khan Tengri range. It is classic pyramid shape mountain. There are equipped camps (IMC) both on southern and northern Inylchek glaciers. First ascent by M.Pogrebetsky in 1931 from South side via West saddle.
World Mountaineering pp.198-201; Forbidden Mountains pp.127-13o; Maier pp.229-230
Internal Tien-Shan occupies an extensive zone of the central part of Kyrgyzstan, from Ak-Shiyrak range in east up to Fergana range in west and from Kyrgyz range in north up to Tarimskaya plain in China in the south. This extensive area unites about 30 ranges with heights up to 5000m between which are stretched magnificent middle-mountaineous and high-mountaineous valleys with relatively gently sloping ranges with set of easy accessible passes.
Tien Shan mountain range, meaning Heavenly Mountains, is 800 km wide and 2800 km long mountain system located in Central Asia northeast of Pamir and north of Kunlun Shan, extending from Uzbekistan to Mongoliaa. It is extended further north by the Bogda Mountains, and further still by the Altai Mountains along China's northern border. It includes more than thirty peaks close to, or over, 6000 meters above sea level, the predominant height of summits in the Tien Shan is 4000-5000m and passes range between heights of 3500-4500m. All the chains are ridges of the Tien Shan except the meridian one, run west-east and consists of four separated by natural features: the Central Tien Shan, the Northern and the Western and the Inner Tien Shan.
The Tien Shan is well glaciated: it has 7787 glaciers, the biggest one being the South Ingylchek glacier. The climate tends to be severe, it is characterized by sudden variations and frequent rainfall, phenomena connected to the vicinity of the Takla Makan desert. Especially northern parts of the range has very low temperatures. The snow line is at a much lower altitude than in the neighbouring Pamir (at around (3200m). Most suitable time for climbing the big peaks is July and August.
Pamir range, called the roof of the world by Persians, is located in southern Central Asia. It is mainly located mainly in Tajikistan, but the northern slopes stretch to Kyrgyzstan, its western and southern slopes stretch to Afganistan and eastern slopes to China. It is roughly rectangular in shape, they are 280 km long north to south and about 420 km from west to east. The range is naturally bordered by Kyzyl-Su and Surkhob river valleys in the north, Sarykol ridge on the border between China and Tajikistan in the east, Pamir and Pyandzh rivers in the south and Pyandzh river and Western spurs of the Darvaz and Peter the First ridges on the west. The region is sometimes referred to as the Pamir Knot, as it is the central hub of great mountain ranges. On the West Pamir borders on Hindu Kush, on the south on Karakoram and Himalaya and on the east of Pamier lies Kunlun Shan and on the North-East Tien Shan.
Heavy snowfall and large glaciers accompany the high peaks in the Pamirs, and narrow glacier-fed lakes nestle in many of the valleys. Generally, however, the range below snowline receives minimal precipitation, and desert conditions prevail. The snow line rises from 3860m in the west to 5240m in the east. The optimal period for climbing in this region is July-August.
The Pamirs are divided in two halves by naturally occurring mountain features. Western Part of Pamir is home to high ridges and massive glaciers. Many peaks are more than 6000 meters high and three rise above 7000m. The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad deserted plateau 3500 to 4500m. Above these are sloping ridges, such as the Muzcol ridge, reaching heights of about 6000m.
Zaalaiski ridge (or Trans-Alai) on the border between Kyrgystan and Tajikistan form the northernmost part of Pamir. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. Established base camp at Achik-Tash (3700m, accessible from Osh) is popular base for the climbers.
Peak Lenin is located in the middle of Zaalaiyskiy group in the northernmost part of Pamir, on the border between Tadjikistan and Kyrghystan. Both north and south faces are around 45-50° steep. There are sixteen routes on the slopes of Lenin Peak, seven on the northern side and nine on the southern one. Most frequently climbed routes start at Pamir base camp of Achik-Tash (3700m) on the north side, that is accessible from the city of Osh. From Osh, it takes 8-10h. Alternatively, it can be reached by helicopter in half an hour from Osh or 2,5 hours from Tashkent. July and August are considered the best climbing months. Snow line lies at 4200-4500m on the north side and at 4800-5400m on the south side. First ascent by E. Allvein, K. Vin and E. Schneider 28.09.1934.
Forbidden Mountains pp.84-85; Maier pp.190-192
Located very close to Achik Tash and Onion Field camps of Peak Lenin. Mostly climbed as a two day acclimatization climb for Peak Lenin.
Located very close to Achik Tash and Onion Field camps of Peak Lenin. Mostly climbed as a means of acclimatization for Peak Lenin.
South of Zaalaisky Ridge lies Northwestern Pamir. The area is dominated by huge and heavily glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m), located at the junction of Peter the First and the Academy of Sciences Ridges and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m). Other important features include Peter the First ridge with Peak Moscow (Pik Moskva, 6785m), Darvaz ridge with Peak Arnavad (6083m), Vanch ridge and part of Yazgulem ridge. On Peak Communism, the rock is poor and the approach is difficult, but because it is the highest of all peaks in the region, climbers have been active on the mountain for decades, and a variety of routes exist to the summit.
Huge ice massif located in the North-West Pamir approximately 380km northwest of the Karakoram in the Republic of Tajikistan. South face, that rises 2000m from Beliava glacier, is home to most difficult routes. It has a 600-800m high rock wall (average inclination 80°). First ascent by a party of five Russians in 1933 via East Spur from Fedchenko Glacier. Only Yevgeny Abalakov made the summit.
World Mountaineering pp.204-207; Forbidden Mountains pp.88-91; Maier pp.188-189
Located on Academia nauk ridge, 13km north of Peak Communism. There are several complicated routes on the West Face. First ascent by A. Agarov in 22.08.1953 from the northern side.
Forbidden Mountains pp.87-88
Central Western Pamir includes part of the Academy of Sciences ridge, Tynymas and the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky ridge (mountains of the southern group of Fedchenko glacier). Peak Revolution (Pik Revolutsii, 6974m), located on Yazgulem ridge, is the dominating peak of the area.
Located on Yazgulem ridge in central western Pammir. First ascent by E.Tamm in 1957 via NW Col.
Forbidden Mountains pp.92-94
South Western Pamir was for centuries important trade route between East and West. It was here that the nomad populations traced the route that would later be called the Silk Road. Here lie Rushansky, Shugnansky, Ishkashimsky, Shakhdarinsky and South-Alichursky ridges. Most important peaks of the region include Paktor Peak (6080m), the Tadzhikistan (6565m), Moscovoskoy Pravdi and Tadzhikskiy Gosudarstvenniy Universitet (TGU, 6183m) peaks, two splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (formerly the Queen's Peak, 6510m).
The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad flat plateau of 3500-4000 meters high and more occupies the eastern part of Pamir and stretches from its north to the south, being only once separated by Muzcol ridge.
Pamir-Alai lies between higher Pamir and Tien-Shan mountains. This strip of mountains of length 750km and width up to 150km can be divided into a several areas suitable for trekking and mountaineering. Western part of the range is Fann Mountains (Fansky mountains), located in Western Tadjikistan just in 80kms far from ancient Samarkand. There are 11 summits above 5000m, the highest of them being Chimtorga (5480m). The area has alpine-style rock routes of medium grades and benefits from warm and stable weather. East of Fann mountains, between Fergana and Zeravshan valleys, lies Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys. The area is best known for large and steep granite faces. Propably the most famous peak in Pamir-Alai is Ak-Su (5355m) in Laylak Valley. In the heart of Pamir-Alai, on a joint of Turkestanski, Alaiski and Zeravshanski ranges lie Matcha. It is home to huge Zeravshanskiy glacier and the highest peak of Pamir-Alai, Skalisty (Rocky) peak (5621m). In the eastern part of the range, between Pamir and sunny Fergana valley, lies Alaiski range with more than 30 summits above 5000m.
Located in Laylak Valley in Pamir-Alai. Snowy Ak-Su (Ak-Su Glavanage) is higher (5355m) than rocky summit (Ak-Su Skolnoye, 5217m). 1500m high north face with very difficult rock routes.
Kunlun Shan (or Kunlun/Kun-Lun) is a major mountain system of Asia, located along the north edge of the vast dry Tibetan plains in China about halfway between the Himalayas in the south and Tien Shan in the north. On the west side, it borders on Pamir. The highest mountains of the range are located in the narrow eastern part. There are several high peaks in the range with very difficult Kongur (7719m) being the highest. Technically easy Muztagh Ata (7546m) is by far the most climbed of the high peaks, it probably being the most popular of all 7000m peaks. Apart from Muztagh Ata, many mountains of the range are little known, remote and access is both difficult and takes a great deal of time. There are several unclimbed high peaks. Apart from the above mentioned, Muztag (7282m), Cholpanglik (7102m), Ulugh Muztagh (6987m), Bukadaban Feng (6860m), Chakragil (6727m) and Amne Machin (6282m) are probably the most important peaks. July and August are considered the best months for climbing.
Kongur (7719m) is the main summit of the Kongur-Tagh Massif and Kunlun Shan range. It is located in the western part of the range, not far from the Karakoram Highway and Muztagh Ata. Approach is reasonable from Karakul lake along Karakoram highway but all routes demand difficult climbing at high altitude. First ascent by Chris Bonington, Pete Boardman, Alan Rouse & Joe Tasker in 1981 va SW Ridge (Bonington route). Bonington Chris: Kongur China's Elusive Summit.
Located in Kun-Lun range in China, above Karakol lake, it stands alone and rises 4 kilometer above the valley, to the south of Kongur. Normal route is non-technical and Muztagh Ata is nowadays very popular, far more so than Peak Lenin. Access to the base camp on the west side of mountain is 3-4h hike from Karakoram highway. Steep and remote eastern side was first climbed in 2000 by the party led by Dan Mazur via eastern ridge. First ascent by Chinese-Soviet expedition in 1956 via Kalaxong ridge.
Located in the central Kunlun Shan, near the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, Ulugh Muztagh is a high snow peak. Old survey of 1890 gave it a height of 7720m, more recent ones 6973m or 6989. Ulugh Muztagh is very remote and inaccessible, thus there have been very few climbs. Some expeditions have been stopped long before they reached the base of the mountain. First ascent by Sino-American expedition in 1985 from the east side.
Hindu Kush is located southwest of Pamir, more or less on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan. The Hindu Kush is one of the great watersheds of Central Asia, forming part of the vast Alpine zone that stretches across the continent from east to west. In the eastern part of the range, mountains are generally round and wide, and rise to around 5500m, low by central Asian standards. Western part has a cluster of high snowy peaks, twenty of which are 7000 meter summits. The highest mountain of the area is Tirich Mir (7690m). Compared to many other areas with high peaks, the weather is predictable and stable.
Located in Hindu Kush, south of the main crest, entirely in Pakistan.
| 1950 | First ascent | Arne Naess, P. Kvernberg, H. Berg & Tony Streather |
World Mountaineering pp.212-215
Karakoram (sometimes spelled Karakorum) lies in northeast Pakistan and Northern India , some 1500km west of Nepalase Himalayas and north of westernmost part of Himalaya, separated from it by the river of Indus. It is often regarded as a part of the Himalayas. The mountains in Karakoram typically have sharp, angular form and many of icy peaks are surrounded by wild towers and spires. Many mountains in Karakoram are very difficult to climb. The range has severe storms, especially K2 is known for harsh weather. On high mountains, June - August are usually most suitable months for climbing.
Majestically shaped K2 (8611m, world's second highest mountain) is the most famous mountain in Karakoram. Called mountaineer's mountain, it has no easy route, as every route features technically difficult climbing at high altitude. 8035m Gasherbrum II, The lowest of the four 8000m peaks of the range, on the other hand is considered as one of the easier 8000m peaks. It is located very close to Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, 8068) and these two share lower camps. Broad Peak is the fourth 8000m peak of the range. Besides 8000m giants, especially Ogre (7285m), Spantik (7028m) and Trango Tower (6231m) are legendary climbers' mountains.
K2, the second highest mountain in the world (and probably the most difficult one), is located in Karakoram range and it rises above Godwi-Austen Glacier. It rises 549 meters higher than the peaks surrounding it. This exposure together with its northernly location (35° northern latitude) subjects the mountain to exceptionally harsh weather. K2 was found by Europeans as late as 1856 as Captain T.G. Montgomerie surveyed it from a distance of roughly 200 kilometers. He gave the mountain a provisory name of K2, where letter K indicates Karakoram and number 2 is reference number. The mountain is also known as Chogori (or Qogir) and Mount Godwin-Austen (after Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, first Surveyor-General of the Survey of India). First attemp was made in 1902 by a party lead by Oscar Eckenstein. They reached altitude of 6524 meters on NE-ridge. The most feasible route was found 1909 by the Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition on SE-ridge, which is now known as Abruzzi Ridge. In 1953 a seven man team led by Charles S. Houston reached 7500 m, but was forced to turn back due bad weather and Thrombosis of Art Gilkey. While lowering Gilkey, the multiple fall dragged five members of the team toward a precipice, but Pete Schoening managed to stop the fall by ice axe belay. Gilkey however went missing during the fall. First successful ascent was made by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli 31.07.1954., who were members of large Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. Nine camps were established during the ascent. Firts ascent without bottled oxygen took place in 1978 by Americans John Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway. They summited together with fellow Americans Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt via NE Ridge. First female ascents were made in 1986 by Wanda Rutkiewicz (Poland), Lilianne Barrard (France) and Julie Tullis (UK) via Abruzzi Ridge. Tullish perished in storm while still high on the mountain. Benoit Chamoux (France) ascended Abruzzi Ridge in 1986 from ABC to summit in just 22,5 hours only few days after soloing Broad Peak in 16 hours. Because of its majestic shape and fearsome reputation, K2 is features in climbing related movies "K2" and "Vertical Limit". The latter was filmed in New Zealand's Southern Alps (Camera flies by the NZ Classic SE Ridge of Mt.Aspiring during the end credits).
World Mountaineering pp.216-223
Located in Gasherbrum Group of Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoram Range) in Pakistan. Gasherbrum range is usually approached from Islamabad via Skardu and Askole. Gasherbrum I is often climbed (or tried to, anyway) in double pack with easier Gasherbrum II. W.M. Conway gave it the name 'Hidden Peak' because it cannot be seen until one reaches the Abruzzi Glacier ath the end of the Baltoro Glacier. First ascent by Andrew Kauffmann and Pete Schoening in 1958 via SW Ridge. NW face via obvious couloir leading close to north shoulder was climbed by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in alpine style in 1975. This 3 day roundtrip is a milestone in alpine style mountaineering at altitude. All previous successes on 8000m peaks had relied on well stocked camps and fixed ropes (eventhough First ascent of Broad Peak was done without bottled oxygen and high-altitude porters). In 1985 Messner returned with Hans Kammerlander (Austria) to link Gasherbrum I to Gasherbrum II in the first continuous traverse of two 8000 meter peaks.
Broad Peak lies in Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoram Range) in Pakistan, between K2 and Gasherbrum group, some 8km aways from K2. There has been some debate whether or not the Central Summit should be considered independent mountain and thus the 15th 8000m summit. However, the same debate has been made concerning other subsidiary summits, especially Yalung Kang on Kanchenjunga and Lhotse Shar on Lhotse. First ascent by Austrians Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Markus Schmock and Fritz Wintersteller in 1957 via West Spur. Neither supplemental oxygen nor high-altitude porters were used. First female ascent was made by Krystyna Palmowska (Poland) in 1983. Kryztof Wielicki (Poland) summited in 16 hours from base camp in 1984 and Benoit Chamoux likewise in 16 hours in 1986. Traverse of all three summits was made in 1984 by Polish Wojciech Kurtyka and Jerzy Kukuczka alpine style starting with the North face of the North Peak.
Located in Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoram Range) in Pakistan, very close to Gasherbrum I. First ascent by Sepp Larch, Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart in 1956 via SW Ridge.
Located in Gasherbrum Group in Karakoram. First ascent by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri in 1958 via NE Ridge. They were members of Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin. 2500m high West Face (Shining Wall) was climbed in 1985 by Wojciech Kurtyka and Robert Schauer after several attemps.
World Mountaineering pp.226-229
Highrest mountain in Biago Glacier area. Besides the main summit (7285m), both West and East summits are 7150m high. First ascent by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott in 1977 via SW Face & West Ridge via West Summit. The first ascent is one of the most famous epics in the history of alpinism. Doug Scott broke both his legs right after they had summited. As if this was not bad enough, storm broke in. Chris Bonington describes the epic in Everest Years. Despite several attemps, the second ascent succeeded only in 2002 by Thomas Huberm, Iwan Wold & Urs Stöcker. Thomas Huber recounts the ascent in Ogre - Gipfel der Träume (BLV Verlag, 2002).
Most of the worlds highest mountains are located in the vast and complex Himalayan range (that means The Land of Snow). It forms over 2000km broad crescent through Northeastern Pakistan (Punjab), Northern India (Garhwahl), Southern Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. It is bordered on the north by the plateau of Central Asia and on the south by the fertile plains of the India. Ten of the world's fourteen 8000-meter peaks are located in Himalaya (the remaining are located in Karakoram). <<more>>.
Besides the aforementioned ranges, there are several other ranges, especially in China. Mostly not much information is readily available and there is huge number of unclimbed high peaks.
In Sichuan province of Central China, east of the Himalaya, there are a series of parallel ranges stretching north-south. These ranges include the Hengduan, Taniantaweng, Ningjing, Shaluli, Chola, Daxue, and Qionglai. The highest mountains of these ranges is Minya Konka (7556m), 66th highest mountain of the world and the most easternly located 7000m peak. It is also the highest peak in China excluding autonomous regions.
Located in Sichuan province of Central China, Minya Konka is the easternmost 7000m peak. First ascent by American expedition in 1932. ("Men against Clouds")
Bogda range is located immediately northeast of Tien Shan range in western China. The heavily glaciated range forms the northern border of Turpan Depression, where elevation is 150m below sea level. The valleys on southern side of the range are hot, dry, very windy, and comparatively treeless, while the northern side is densely covered in forests. The highest peak of the range is Bogda Peak (or Bogda Feng, 5445m). Its close proximity to the local capital of Urumqi makes it a popular mountain for Chinese mountaineers.
Highest peak in Bogda range. Access is reasonably easy, but all routes involve difficult climbing. First ascent by 11 person Japanese team in 1981.
Altai mountains are located in the region where Russia, Kazakhstan, China and Mongolia meet, north of Bogda range. Though Altai range is lower in altitude than many other ranges in Asia, it is very remote, and much time and planning are required for its approach. The highest mountain is Gora Belukha (or Belukla, 4506m).
Forbidden Mountains pp.99-101
Gora Belukla is the highest mountain of Altai range. It is located along the border of Russia and Kazakhstan, just north of the point where these two borders meet those of China and Mongolia. Eastern summit (4506m) is slightly higher than western summit (4460m).
Maier pp.249-250