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Eastern Alps

General

Eastern Alps consist of numerous mountain groups and sub groups. Alpine Clubs made official structure back in 1984 which is used in most guidebooks and maps. The structure on this site is consistent with this division. However, areas that are less interesting for mountaineering and alpinism may be grouped together to form larger groups. Also few mountain sgroups, officially associated with Western Alps are grouped togethern with western areas of Eastern Alps under the heading Central Alps.

  • Donatsch Peter & Coulin David: Die schönsten Gipfelziele der Schweizer Alpen Ost - Ostschweiz, Glarus, Schwyz, Graubünden, Tessin, 2. Auflage edition. AT Verlag, 2002. Isbn: 978-3855029075.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl Alex & Jentzsch Andreas: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen. Alpinverlag, 2003. Isbn: 3-9500920-0-5.
  • O'Connor Bill: Alpine Ski Mountaineering, vol 2: Central & Eastern Alps. Cicerone, 2003. Isbn: 18528433748.
  • Schmitt Edwin & Pusch Wolfgang: Hochtouren Ostalpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3763330100.
  • Seibert Dieter: Eastern Alps - the Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Diadem Books, 1992. Isbn: 0-906371-54-6.
  • Widmaer Johanna: Best of Alpine Genussklettereien, Band 1. Band 1. Alpinverlag, 2002. Isbn: 392680730X.
Blattschnittübersicht - Wanderkarten
Overview map of Kompass Wanderkarten. Also available as Google Earth version from the page.
Bücher für Bergsteiger, Kletterer und Wanderer
Links to various guidebooks covering mainly German-Speaking parts of European Alps by Markus Stadler.
Die Gebirgsgruppen der Ostalpen
Detailed information about the official structure of Eastern Alps. Includes very useful overview map At Bergalbum of Mathias Zehring
freytag & berndt Wanderkarten
Overview map at freytag & berndt.
Kartenübersicht
Ovierview of Alpenverein maps. Contains the maps published by Austrian and German Alpine clubs and covering the alpine areas of those countries as well as few other areas.
Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:25 000
Overview map of Swiss maps at Swisstopo.
Tabacco Wanderkarten
Overview map of Tabacco Wanderkarten (1:25 000) of Italy at Casa Editrice Tabacco.
Topographische Karte 1:25 000 (TK25)
Overview map at Bayerische Vermessungsvervaltung.
Wanderkarten
Links to various maps covering mainly German-Speaking parts of European Alps by Markus Stadler.
Österreichische Karte
http://www.bev.gv.at Bundesamt für Eich- und Messungswesen

Central Alps

Central Alps are located in the Eastern Switzerland to the east of Bernese and Pennine Alps and beyond Grimsel and Furka Passes. They consist of numerous smaller ranges. Whether Central Alps actually exist as a third main group of the Alps is not clear. Here however, few groups often associated with Western Alps are grouped together.

Glarus Alps to the south and east of Engelberg are possibly to most interesting of these to the climbers. Titlis (3240m) above Lake Lucerne and city of Engelberg is a popular ski mountaineering peak. Around it, there are several lesser peaks that, however, have high-quality granite for rock climbing. For those interested in classic ice climbing, Clariden (3267m) Nordwand (AD, 50°) is the best objective.

Farther south on the Swiss-Italian border between Simplon and Splügen passes lie the Lepontine Alps (eastern part of the range is sometimes refered to as Adula Alps). The range has several peaks that rise above 3000m mark, but it is not particularly popular among the climbers because of the quality of the rock leaves some room for improvement. However, these areas are well suited for ski mountaineering during the winter. Especially popular is Monte Leone (3553m) just above the town of Brig.

The Albula Alps lie in the canton of Grisons (Graubünden), north of the winter sport center Saint Moritz and rises between Splügen and Flüela passes. There the rock begins to reminiscent dolomitic limestone. The highest peak is Piz Kesch (3418m).

North-eastern Swiss Alps lie close to Austrian border. The best known peaks of the area are Glärnisch (2920m) and Säntis (2504m) in the canton of Appenzell.

  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 (Tarasp), 1:25 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 (Tarasp), 1:50 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1137 (Albula), 1:25 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 258 (Bergün), 1:50 000.
  • Anderson: Mittel Switzerland - Lepontine - Ticino - Adula Alps.
  • Griffin Lindsay: Bernina and Bregaglia - selected climbs including Disgrazia and the Albula Region. Alpine Club, 1995. Isbn: 0-900523-60-3.
  • Hunziker Manfred: Bündner Alpen 6 - Albula: vom Septimer zum Flüela. SAC Verlag, 2000. Isbn: 3-85902-187-7.
Rotondo Hut
Guide of Selected Climbs and Tours in the Rotondo area (Switzerland).
Monte Leone (3553m)
  • located close to the city of Brig.
  • The highest peak of Lepontine Alps and the most important peak in Simplon pass (2005m) area. NW side has ice routes while North, NE and south sides have rock routes. Popular also on skis between March and June.
NNW Flank
  • AD, 50-55° (4 pitches), III. 3h from Monte Leone hut
1893-08-11 First ascent Victor H. Gatty, Louis Zurbrücken & Constantin Kiecher
WSW Ridge (South Ridge)
  • Normal route. Via Homatrtu Pass (2867m) and Breithorn Pass (3355m). Used both during the summer and winter.
  • F/PD (G2), II, 35°. 700m/1500m, 5h from Simplonpass (2005m), 4h from Monte Leone hut.
1859-07 First ascent Swiss Officers
Piz Kesch (3418m)
  • Bündner Alps/Albula Alps
  • The highest mountain of Bündner Alps and Albula Alps. There is a small glacier on the north side while south face is mostly rock. There are three summits, West (3418m),Central (3405m) and East (Keschnadel, 3386m). The lowest east summit is the most spectacular with climbing routes on it. NE Ridge AD+, IV,5-6h) is a classic. Most difficult climbs are found on East face (TD-, V+, A2).
  • summits:
    • Piz Kesch (3418m)
    • Piz Kesch (3405m)
    • Piz Kesch (3386m)
NE Ridge/East Face from Es-cha Hut
  • Short steep steps, moderate glacier with crevasses ans moderate snow. Scree or blocks (I-II).
  • PD-/PD (G2-3), I-II. 850m, 2,5h from Es-cha Hut (2544m) via NE Ridge and Face.
1946 First ascent J. Coaz, J. Rascher, C. Casper & J. Tscharen
Clariden (3267m)
  • Located in Uri/Glarus.
  • Very popular ski mountain due to easy access both from Zürich and Luzern. Especially South and East faces and East Pillar are impressive.
Normal route from Klausenpass
  • ~PD
Nordwand
  • Classic ice face. Best time during late spring - early summer.
  • AD, 45-50°. 950m from Vartrutt (1799m) on the Klausenpass road or from Klausenpass
Titlis (3240m)
  • Located in Glarus/Urner Alps above Sustenpass and city of Engelberg and lake Lucerne.
  • There is a cable car from Engelberg to 3020m. Popular ski mountaineering destination. There used to be via ferrata on the south face.
West Ridge
  • G1
Nordpfeiler
  • III-IV
1932 First ascent Hess

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia are located very close together in the southeast corner of Switzerland. Outside mountaineering circles the area is more famous as the winter playground of the "jet-set", centred on the fashionable resorts of St. Moritz (1822m) and Samedan (1720m) in the upper Engadin valley, and Pontresina (1800m) in Bernina valley.

Main convenient centers are St. Moritz (1822m) and Samedan (1720m) in the upper Engadin valley, and Pontresina (1800m) in Bernina valley. These can be reached by car from Zürich (200km, 3h), Munich or Milano (175k, 3h). It is also possible to reach St.Moritz and Pontresina by train either from Switzerland (Bernina Express from Chur, approximately 4h from Zürich via Chur to Pontresina) or from Italy (Tirano).

  • Griffin Lindsay: Bernina and Bregaglia - selected climbs including Disgrazia and the Albula Region. Alpine Club, 1995. Isbn: 0-900523-60-3.
  • Swindin Les: Bernina & Bregalia - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 1995. Isbn: 0900523603.
Bregaglia and Bernina
Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.

Bernina (Val Malenco)

Although Bernina Alps is one of the most traditional alpine regions, the area is far less frequented than Chamonix of Zermatt. This compact area is located between Upper Engadin valley in northwest, Bernina valley in northeast and Val Poschiavo in southeast, Val Valtellina (Sondrio) in south and Val Malenco on the west. Val Malenco separates Bernina from Bergell. High season for most routes (especially rock) runs from early June to early September. However, harder ice routes are typically in best condition earlier, usually in May and early June.

The area is complex with many sharp summits, large glacier filled valleys and a range of very worthwhile climbing objectives of all difficulties. The centerpiece and name sake of this compact area is the Piz Bernina (4049m), the highest Alpine peak east of Monte Rosa. Like Piz Bernina, also other famous peaks, Piz Palü, Bellavista, Piz Roseg and Piz Scerscen are heavily glaciated, providing catchment areas for two great glaciers, the Roseg and Morteratsch. As Bernina rock is not good, it is fortunate that the best climbs are on snow, ice and mixed ground; the corner stones of traditional Alpinism.

Usually the climbs in Bernina are reached from Bernina valley located to the north of the range and connected to upper Engadin valley with popular tourist attractions Samedan and St. Moritz. Main convenient center in the Bernina valley is Pontresina (1800m). The valley is easily reached with Bernina Expres strain running from St. Moritz to Diavolezza (2093m).

From Diavolezza cable car provides easy access to Diavolezza hut (2973m), located on the east side of Morteratsch glacier. Boval hut on the west side of Morteratsch glacier can be easily reached from Morteratsch train station. Morteratsch glacier and especially Diavolezza hut is a starting point for the most frequented routes on Piz Palü and normal route of Piz Bernina.

Further to the west Val Roseg provides access to Tschierva glacier. Tschierva hut is the starting point for Biancograt, likely the most classic route of the area. Tschierva glacier is the starting point also for NW Face of Piz Roseg, West Face of Piz Bernina and NW side of Piz Scerscen.

It is also possible to reach some climbs from Italy in the south. Franscia (Italy) via Campo Moro (1990m), Rifugio Corate Brinanza (2636m) and Rifugio Marinelle Bombardieri (2813m).

  • Ander D.: Piz Bernina - König der Ostalpen. AS Verlag. Isbn: 3905111454.
  • Collomb Robin: Bernina Alps - a selection of climbs, 2nd edition. West Col, 1986.
  • Collomb Robin: Bernina Alps - Palü - Bernina - Roseg - Sella - Fora etc.
  • Flaig G. & W.: Berninagruppe - Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1997. Isbn: 3763324178.
  • Matossi René: Bündner Alpen 5 - Bernina Gruppe. SAC Verlag, 1993.
  • Vanuccini: Grenztoure im Berninagebiet - Engadin, Puschlav, Valmelenen, Veltlin. Montabella Verlag, 1999.
Bernina - Biancograt - Palü
Photos from Bernina.
Bernina Alps
Range page at Peakware.
Hochtourenwoche Bernina
from DAV, Sektion Hildesheim.
Piz Bernina (4049m)
  • The only 4000er in Eastern Alps and one of the architecturally most beautiful mountains.
1850-09-13 First ascent Johan Coaz, Jon Ragut Tscharner & Lorenz Ragut Tscharner. Coaz christened the mountain 'Piz Bernina'. Coaz was a topograhpher and both Ragut Tscharners his helpers. They climbed via Morteratsch glacier and Eastern Ridge. Though they were on a mission, they let their topographic instruments on the foot of the Eastern Ridge and continued to the top driven by the summit fever.
Piz Bernina
Mountain page at Peakware.
Piz Bernina
Mountain page at SummitPost.
North ridge (Biancograt)
  • Most commonly accessed from Val Roseg (Tschierva hut 2480m) by climbing to Prievluss Pass (icy and tricky climb with steep snow/ice up to 45-50°). It is also possible to reach Prievluss Pass from Boval side (IV).
Biancograt (Crast Alva)
  • A splendid snow ridge of Biancograt (North Ridge) is one of the most renowed climbs in the whole Alps. From Tschierva hut, descent to Diavolezza hut.
  • III AD/AD+ (G6); 45-50° with III/III+ on rock. 600m 4h (ridge itself), 1450m, 7-8h from Tschierva Hut
1876-08-12 First ascent Henry Cordier, Thomas Middlemore, Johann Jaun & Kaspar Maurer to Piz Bianco
1878 First ascent Prof. Paul Güssfeldt, Hans Grass & Johann Gross to Piz Bernina
Biancograt
By Herbert Kleinsorge
Piz Bernina (4049 m) - Bianco crest (Crast'Alva)
Trip report July 22-23, 2000 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. Includes route description.
Traverse from Piz Palü
y Herbert Kleinsorge
Biancograt Besteigung
2.-5. July 1999 by OASE Alpin Bergschule in Oberstdorf.
East side
  • From Morteratsch in Bernina valley to Boval Hut From Diavolezza in Bernina valley to Diavolezza hut (2973m, access with cable car)
NE Flank "Durch die Gurgel"
  • There are several difficult and serious routes on the NE Flank, e.g. "Winkel" through entire hanging glacier. Only route "durch die Gurgel" is reasonable. From Boval Hut to Sass dal Pos (3265m) and along East Ridge to the summit. Stone fall danger.
  • II. 4-5h from Boval hut
South ridge
  • From Bernina valley either from Ponteresina via Diavolezza Hut (2973m, access by cable car, 1050m, 5-6h) or from Morteratsch via Boval Hut (1700m, 6-9h) to Marco e Rosa Hut. Also possible from Franscia (Italy) via Campo Moro (1990m), Rifugio Corate Brinanza (2636m) and Rifugio Marinelle Bombardieri (2813m) to Marco e Rosa Hut (7,5-9h).
Spallagrat (Spalla del Bernina e cresta Sud)
  • Normal route. The route goes along South Ridge via Southern Foresummit Spalla (4020m). Predominantly glacier with long and complicated approach. I and II on rock (fixed gear).
  • PD/PD+, II, 35°. 1050m from Diavolezza Hut (1973m) to Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m), summit climb 500m, 1,5h.
1866-06-23 First ascent F.F. Tuckett, F.A.Y. Brown, C. Almer & F. Andermatt
Piz Bernina from Campo Moro
Route page at SummitPost.
West side
  • From Ponteresina (1805m) in Bernina valley via Val Roseg to Tschierva hut (2480m).
West Face (Westwand)
  • Direct ice route
  • D+, 50-60°. 500m, 5-6h from Tschierva hut
First ascent T.Graham Brown
Piz Bernina Überschreitung Westwand - Biancograt
By P.Lechner
Piz Zupo (3995m)
  • Located on the main ridge between Piz Bernina (4049m), Crast' Agüzza (3869m), Piz Argien (3945m) and Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) in west and Passo Zupo (3840m), Bellavista (3922), Fuorcla Bellavista (3688m) and Piz Palü in east.
  • The 2nd highest mountain in Bernina Alps. The name "Zupo" means "hidden", as the from the north side the mountain is hidden behind Bellavista (3922m). South and SE sides have big faces and pillars. Most worthwhile ascents are from Morteratsch side, especially traverse over Bellavista - Piz Zupo - Piz Argient (or in opposite directions).
North Ridge
  • Easiest route from Italy
  • F+/PD (G3), II, 35°. 1500m, 5,5h from the Boval hut (2495m), 1/2 - 3/4h from Passo Zupo (3840m).
Traverse Piz Argient - Piz Zupó - Bellavista
  • From Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m) via Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) and NE Ridgge to Piz Argient (3945m, PD, 1,5-2h from Fuorcla Zupo). From there traverse to Piz Zupó (45 min.), and further to Passo Zupo (3840m) and traverse of four summits of Bellavista : Main (west, 3922m), Eiskuppe (Wintergupfel, 3892m), 2nd summit (3893m) and East summit (3804m) and descent to Fuorcla Bellavista (3688) between Bellavista and Piz Palü. Descent to Diavolezza hut (2973m).
  • AD-
SW Ridge
  • Easiest ascent from Morteratsch side. From Marinelli hut via Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza (1,5-2h from Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza). Descent via Piz Argient (3945m) to Marco e Rosa hut (3597m).
Piz Scerscen (3971m)
Piz Scerscen
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Piz Scerscen
Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.
Norwestsporn "Eisnase" (NW Spur)
  • D-, III/AI2 (55-60°), III+. 700m/1400m, 5,5h from Tschiervahütte
Piz Roseg (3937m)
  • Classic ascent follows W Flank. However, Eselsgrat (North ridge) is nowadays considered to be the normal route. All other routes are long and more difficult (Sellagrat (SW Ridge) and East Ridge via kleine Roseg are especially worthwhile). Couloir through the faces are extremely dangerous.
  • summits:
    • Piz Roseg (3937m)
    • Piz Roseg (3920m)
Piz Roseg
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Piz Roseg
Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.
North face
  • From Tschierva hut (2573m, 3h from Pontresina)
North Ridge (Eselsgrat)
  • Normal route. Nowadays considered to be the normal route. From station Murteél (2699m) to Coaz hut (2610m). Via SW Flank to north summit (3920m) and traverse to main summit along NW Ridge.
  • AD- (G4), II/III, 40°. 1400m, 5,5h from Tschiervahütte to summit, descent to Pontresina 5h.
Nordostwand
  • D, III, 55°. 5,5-8,5h, 670m/1350m from Tschiervahütte (2583m)
1890 First ascent Christian Klucker & Ludwig Norman-Neruda
Piz Palü (3923m)
  • Easternmost of the high peaks of Bernina, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland.
  • Most famous glacier peak of Eastern Alps for several reasons. Piz Palü had a central role in the old movie "White Hell of Piz Palü".
  • 800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Cable car from Val Bernina to Diavolezza Hut (2973m, the best starting point for ascents on the north side) makes the approach significantly easier.
  • summits:
    • Piz Palü (3881m)
    • Piz Palü (3906m)
    • Piz Palü (3923m)
  • Anker & Philip: Piz Palü - dreiklang in Fels und Eis. AS-Verlag, 2003.
Piz Palü
Mountain page at SummitPost.
West ridge
  • Diavolezza Hut (2973m)
West ridge via West summit
  • Normal route. Popular high alpine glacier climb starting from Diavolezza Hut (2973m). The glacier is heavily crevassed and route has exposed ridge that often has enormous cornices.
  • II-III PD (G3-4); 40°. 950m, 4,5h from Diavolezza Hut
Piz Palü
Trip Report September 05-06, 1998 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. Includes route description.
Piz Palü
from AVS Ahrnta
East ridge
  • From Diavolezza Hut (2973m)
Traverse East-West
  • Diavolezza Hut (2973m) - East Shoulder - Piz Palü east summit (4h) - Piz Palü central summit - Piz Palü west summit (0,75h from east summit) - Fuorcla Bellavista (3688) - Fortezza (3369m) - IUsla Persa (2720m) - Diavolezza Hut (2973m).
  • PD+/AD, II, 35°. 6-7h
Complete East Ridge
  • via Fuorcla Pers Palü
  • AD-, II, 45°. 1430m
North face
  • 800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Kuffner Pillar is the easiest and most popular route on the face. Besides the famous pillars, all four hanging glaciers have been climbed, but are not nearly as popular as the pillars (and all have substantial ice fall danger). The one between Kuffner and Bumiller pillkas is the longest and steepest.
  • From Diavolezza Hut (2973m), 1,5-2h over crevassed Pers glacier
Bumiller Pillar
  • Classic mixed climb on the north spur of central peak, the most difficult of three pillars. Usually climbed during the summer with rock shoes.
  • TD-/TD, Short sections of V, mostly III and IV. 60-90° depending on the condition of the serac.. 750m, 6-8h
1887 First ascent Bumiller, Gross, Schnitzler & Schocher
Kuffner Pillar
  • North Spur of East Peak. Most popular route on north face and the easiest of three pillars. Lower part rocky, upper third snow/ice.
  • AD+/D- (IV- (short sections), mostly III, AI1 (50°). 580m, 5-6h. Approach 1,5h from Diavolezza Hut through Pers glacier (big crevasses).
1899-08-22 First ascent Alexander Burgener, Martin Schocher & Moritz Von Kuffner
Spinas Pillar
  • North Spur of West Peak
  • TD, V-, mostly IV and III and ice. 650m. 6-9h
1899-07-31 First ascent Burton-Alexander, Grass & Zippert
Piz Morteratsch (3751m)
  • Easiest ascent is on the north side. West side (Roseg Valley) has routes between PD and AD. Routes are about 600m long, 1200m from Tschierva hut to the summit. Longest (600 - 700m) and most difficult routes (D - TD) are found on the east side (Morteratsch valley). 1300m from Boval hut (2495m) to the summit.
ENE Ridge (Crasta da la Spraunza)
  • D-, III (mixed). 700m (ridge only)
1892-08 First ascent M.Schintz & A. e J.Pollinger
Normal Route from Boval Hut (NE Ridge)
  • PD-, 40°. 4h from Boval Hut
1858-09-11 First ascent C.G.Brugger, P.Gensler & A.Klaingutti

Bregaglia (Val Masino)

Only a few miles 'down the road', to the west of Val Malenco, on the border between Switzerland and Italy lies Bregaglia (also known as Bergell Alps). It is strikingly different from Bernina, as the mountains in Bregaglia are typically rockier and more lush than the mountains further north or east, as the warmer climate of the south has its impact on the range. Sheer, smooth faces and soaring ridges and buttresses are typical features. Most famous mountains of the range are Piz Badile (3000m) and Piz Cengalo (3370m). Both of these mountains are known for their long, slabby rock routes, the most famous route is over 900 meter long Cassin on Piz Badile. The highest mountain of the group is Monte Disgrazia (3678m) further east. It is much snowier and more glaciated than the other mountains of the group.

Main convenient center is Catanaggio (791m) in Val Masino. From there poor road lead to Preda Rossa (1955m) from where 2h walk to Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m).

Access to north climbs of Monte Dizgrazia is from Chiesa (980m) in Val Malenco. From there path to Bivacco Oggiuoni (3151m), located close to Punta Kennedy to the north of Monte Disgrazia.

  • Bachmann Ruedi: Bündner Alpen 4 - Südlicher Bergeller Berge un Monte Disgrazia. SAC Verlag, 1992.
  • Collomb Robin: Bregaglia east - Forno - Allievi - Albigna - Disgrazia.
  • Mellar Chris: Swiss Rock - Granite Bregaglia - selected rock climbs. Void, 2001. Isbn: 1899098054.
  • Nigg Paul: Bergell - Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3-7633-3405-X.
Climbing in the Swiss Bregaglia
By Jim Drockey.
Val Masino Alps (Bergell)
Area page at SummitPost.
Monte Disgrazia (3678m)
  • Principal peak of Bregaglia. Rises completely isolated and is much snowier that other mountains of the range. The name means "the mountain of misfortune". Valley base is Cataeggio (791m) and normal starting point is parking lot at Preda Rossa (1960m).
First ascent L.Stephen, E.Kennedy, T.Cox & A.Anderegg
North Face
  • From Bivacco Oggioni (3151m), located to the north of MOnte Dizgrazia, close to Punbta Kennedy (3295m).
North Face Direct
  • TD
1934 First ascent Albertini & Schenatti
Spigolo Inglese (North Face)
  • Pure ice up to 55° (200m, 50°/500m)
  • D, 55°. 500m
1910-08-05 First ascent Ling & Raeburn
NW Ridge
  • From Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m) via Sella di Pioda (830m, 2,5h) to NW Ridge
Preda Rossa (NW Ridge)
  • Long and partially exposed ridge. From Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m) via Sella di Pioda to NW Ridge and along it to summit.
  • PD+/AD (G4), III, mostly II and I, 45°. 1100m, 4-5h from the hut.
Corno Grosso grat
  • Has to be started from Rifugio Cesare Ponti as Rifugio Desio is destroyed.
Schenatti Couloir
  • Schenatti couloir follows the Normal route close to Sella di Pioda, then climbs the 400m ice couloir (50°) to NW Ridge and along it to summit.
  • II AD, II/AD (50°), II. 400m/1100m, 4-7h from the hut
NNE Ridge
  • From Bivacco Oggioni (3151m), located to the north of MOnte Dizgrazia, close to Punbta Kennedy (3295m).
Corda Molla (NNE Ridge)
  • AD+ (III/AD (45°). 550m from Bivacco Oggioni
1914-08 First ascent B.De Ferrari & Ignazio Dell'Andrino
South Face
SW Ridge via Baroni
  • II
Direttissima (South Face?)
  • AD+, IV/V
SW Ridge from Rifugio Desio
  • PD
Piz Cengalo (3370m)
  • Masino-Disgrazia group
  • Second highest peak in Masino-Disgrazia group. Italian (South) side has ice cap and three fine ridges. 1300m high North Wall faces Bregaglia valley. SE Wall has many routes and variations starting at AD+.
West Ridge
WSW Ridge
  • Normal route. Snow and rock
  • F or PD
South Face
  • Gianetti hut
ESE Face (Dalai Lama)
  • VII. 460m (12 pitches)
1992 First ascent Luca Maspes & Christiano Perlin
Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest (via Vinci)
  • TD, V+
Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest (via Bonacossa)
  • Via Bonacossa avoids the main difficulties of "via Vinci"
  • D
North Face
North Face
  • TD/TD-. 1200m but more than 2000m of climbing.
1897 First ascent Borghese, Schnitzler & Schocher
NW Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann)
  • 700m rock face followed, then along Ridge to the summit.
  • TD, 6-, A0. 950m, 8h
Piz Badile (3000m)
  • Propably the most famous mountain in Bregaglia. There are two ultra classic rock routes, North Ridge on Cassin on NE face.
First ascent W.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud via South Face.
Piz Badile
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Piz Badile
Mountain page at Peakware.
Piz Badile
Mountain page at Cosley & Houston.
South Face
    South Face
    • PD with passages of III
    1867 First ascent W.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud
    via Molteni (SE Face)
    • D+, V. 500m
    Via Mauri (SSE Ridge)
    • V+. 400m
    1995 First ascent C.Mauri, G.Ferrari & G.Fiorelli
North Face
    North Ridge (Nordkante)
    • Classic. A long rock climb, reputably one of the finest of the grade in the Alps.
    • III AD (Rus 4A); IV+, mostly III and IV (5.7, f4b). 1000m, 7h
    1923 First ascent Walter Risch and Alfred Zürche
    Cassin Route (NE Face)
    • Classic. Long, classic alpine rock climb. Stands equipped.
    • IV TD (Rus 5B), VI+ (6a/5.10) or V, A0. 800m (22 pitches), 6-8h for the ridge, further 1-1,5h to the summit (5 pitches)
    1937 First ascent Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito, Vittorio Ratti, Mario Molteni and Giuseppe Valsecchi
    Jumar Iscariota
    • ABO-, 6c,A1

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Northern part of Eastern Alps extend through Southern Germany and northern Austria from Bodensee in West to Wien in East. The area consist of many mountain groups, many of which are not too important for mountaineers and alpinists. Several limestone ranges ranges located right on the border between Austria and Germany, collectively referred to as Bavarian Alps are well suited for alpine rock climbing. Because of the relatively low altitude and approximity of major cities München, Innsbruck and Salzburg, the area is also popular among mountain walkers and hikers. Most important mountains are Zugspitze (2962m) in Wetterstein Group and Watzmann (2713m) in Berchtesgader Alps. Also, Dachtein group further to the east is important climbing area. In the following, only most important areas are introduced.

  • Map of Tirol. Shows the location of most mountain groups of Bavarian Alps.
    Alpines Klettern im Kalk
    At Markus' Bergsport und Kletterseiten.

    Ammergauer/Lechtaler Alpen

    Located to the west of Wetterstein

    • Ammergauer Hochplatte (2082m)
    • Scheinbergspitze (1926m)
    • Klammspitze (1924m)
    • Kramer (1985m)
    • Daniel und Upspitze (2340m)
    • Thaneller (2340m)
    • Kohlbergspitze (2202m)
    • Lutz Markus & Heiland Robert: Ammergau. Panico, 1999. Isbn: 3-926807-71-7.
    Ammergauer Alpen
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.
    Lechtaler Alpen
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.

    Bayerische Voralpen

    Northernmost group of German Alps, located between Loisach in the West and Berchtesgadener Alps (separated by the river Inn) in the East. Higher groups of Wetterstein, Karwendel and Rofan form souther border of Bayerische Voralpen. The most prominent peaks of the area are Kampenwand, Hörnlwand and Sonntagshorn (1961m). Famous winter sport cities Inzell and Ruhpolding in NE and Reit im Winkl in SW are the most commonly used bases.

    • Krottenkopf (2082m)
    • Wendelstein (1837m)
    • Rotwand (1885m)
    • Hirschberg (1670m)
    • Risserkogel (1826m)
    • Schinder (1808m)
    • Aiplspitze (1759m) und Jägerkamp
    • Jochberg (1565m)
    Bayerische Voralpen
    Steinmald.de.

    Chiemgauer Alpen

    • Geigelstein (1808m)
    • Hochgern (1748m)
    • Kampenwand (1664m)
    • Hörndlwand (1684m)
    Chiemgauer Alpen
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.

    Wetterstein/Mieminger

    Wetterstein is relatively small area located on the border between Germany and Austria, just south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Mieminger lies just south of Wetterstein and North of Stubai Alps. The highest aand most famous mountain of the area is Zugspitze (2962m), the highest mountain of Germany.

    • Zugspitze (2962m) und Jubiläumsgrat
    • Hochwanner (2744m)
    • Hochblasen (2706m)
    • Alpspitze (2620m)
    • Partenkirchener Dreitorspitze (2633m)
    • Obere Wettersteinspitze (2297m)
    • Ehrwalder Sonnenspitze (2412m)
    • Grosse Arnspitze (2195m)
    • Beulke Stefan: Alpenvereinführer Wettersteingebirge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • Eberle Bernd & Zak Heinz: Wetterstein Süd. Panico, 2001. ISBN: 3-926807-86-5.
    • Heinl Josepf: Wetterstein Gebirge. Odyssee Alpinverlag, 1988.
    • Pfanzelt Helmut: Gebietsführer Wetterstein mit Mieminger Kette. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • Pfanzelt Christian: Wetterstein Nord. Panico, 2003. ISBN: 3-926807-49-0.
    • Ritscher Bernd & Dauer Tom: Zugspitze - Menschen, Massen, Mythen. Bruckmann Verlag, 2001.
    • Zak Heinz: Wetterstein. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • AV-Karte: 4/2 (Wetterstein), 1:25.000.
    • Freytag & Berndt: 322 (Wetterstein-Karwendel), 1:50 000.
    • Kompass Karte: 07 (Werdenfelser Land mit Zugspitze), 1:35 000.
    • Topographische Karte: 8532/8632 (Garmisch-Partenkirchen), 1:25.000. Bayerisches Landesvermessungsamt München.
    • Beulke Stefan: Alpenvereinführer Wettersteingebirge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • Eberle Bernd & Zak Heinz: Wetterstein Süd. Panico, 2001. Isbn: 3-926807-86-5.
    • Heinl Josepf: Wetterstein Gebirge. Odyssee Alpinverlag, 1988.
    • Pfanzelt Christian: Wetterstein Nord. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-926807-49-0.
    • Pfanzelt Helmut: Gebietsführer Wetterstein mit Mieminger Kette. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • Ritscher Bernd & Dauer Tom: Zugspitze - Menschen, Massen, Mythen. Bruckmann Verlag, 2001.
    • Zak Heinz: Wetterstein. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    Wetterstein
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.
    Zugspitze (2962m)
    • Located at border between Austria and Germany in Wetterstein range, immediately south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.
    • Highest mountain in Germany and correspondingly popular.
    • First ascent by G.Deutschl, Maier & K. Naus in 1820.
    Jubiläumsgrat
    • 6 km long, exposed ridge joining Zugspitze and Alpspitze (2620m). There are several summit starting from Zugspitze: Innere Höllentalspitze (2737m), Mittlere Höllentalspitze (2740m), Äussere Höllentalspitze (2716m), Vollkarspitze (2630m).
    Jubiläumsgrat
    • Popular climb during the summer. Possible on both directions.
    • II (via ferrata). 500m ascent, 800m descent. 1-2 days (There is Höllentalgrathütte bivouac hut between Mittlere and Äussere Höllentalspitze)
    Jubiläumsgrat
    Route page at SummitPost.
    Jubiläumsgrat - Ridge-Massif
    Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.
    NE Ridge
    • Höllental,from Hammersbach (780m)
    Bayerische Normalweg (Höllentalsteig)
    • Normal route. Slightly harder than Tiroler normal route and considered to be nicer. It is possible to stay at Höllentalangerhütte (1379m) on the route.
    • F+ (G2), via ferrata C. 7-8h, 2200m
    Bayerische Normalweg via Höllental
    Route page at SummitPost.
    Zugspitze Höllentalsteig
    Route description at Alpenfuehrer.de.
    • Reintal, Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m)
    Tiroler Normalweg
    • Normal route. Easiest route to the summit. It is Possible to sleep in Wiener-Neustädter Hut (2209m).
    • I (via ferrata). 1750m, 6-7h from Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m)
    Zugspitze über die Wiener-Neustädter-Hütte
    Route description at Alpenfuehrer.de.

    Karwendel

    Karwendel lies mostly in Austria, between Inntal (Innsbruck) in the south, Wetterstein in West, Rofangebirge in East and Isar in the North. Most common bases are Innsbruck in the south, Achensee in East, Wallgau, Leggries and Eng in the north and Mittenwald, Seefeld, Scharnitz and Krön in the west.

    • Birkkarspitze (2749m)
    • Grosser und Kleiner Bettelwurf (2725m)
    • Solsteine (2637m)
    • Speckkarspitze (2621m)
    • Lamsenspitze (2508m)
    • Sonnjoch (2457m)
    • Erlspitze (2404m)
    • Westliche Karwendelspitze (2384m)
    • Schafreuter (2105m)
    • Sonntagkarspitze (2575m)
    • UK L 30 (Karwendelgebirge), 1:50 000. Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt.
    • AV-Karte: 5/1 (Karwendelgebirge West), 1:25 000.
    • AV-Karte: 5/2 (Karwendel Mitte), 1:25 000.
    • AV-Karte: 5/3 (Karwendel Ost), 1:25 000.
    • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 322 (Karwendel), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
    • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 323 (Achensee-Rofan-Unterinntal), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
    • Deml Robert: Wanderführer Karwendel - die schönsten Tal- und Höhenwanderungen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.
    • Eberle Bernd & Pasold Achim: Karwendel. Panico, 1997. Isbn: 3-926807-54-7.
    • Ehn Wolfgang: Bildband Karwendel. wt-Buchteam, 2002.
    • Klier W.: Alpenvereisnführer Karwendelgebirge Alpin. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
    • Zak Heinz: Bildband Karwendel. Verlag J. Berg, 1990.
    Karwendel
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.

    Kaisergebirge (Wilder Kaiser)

    Located to the east of Kanwendel and West of Rofangebirge. The area offers mostly rock climbs.

    • Ellmauer Halt (2344m)
    • Ackerlspitze (2329m)
    • Treffauer Kaiser (2304m)
    • Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m)
    • Scheffauer Kaiser (2111m)
    • Sonneck (2261m)
    • Pyramidenspitze (1997m)
    • AV-Karte: 8 (Kaisergebirge), 1:25 000.
    • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 301 (Kuftsein-Kaisergebirge-Kitzbuhel), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
    • Brandl: Rund um den Wilden Kaiser. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
    • Höfler H. & Schubert Pit: Wilder Kaiser. AS Verlag.
    • Stadler Markus: Wilder Kaiser - Band 1 - Niveau 3-6. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-936740-06-2.
    Kaisergebirge
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.

    Rofangebirge

    • Hochiss (2299m)
    • Rofanspitze (2259m)
    • Dalfázer Wände (2233m)
    • Sagzahn (2228m)
    • Vorderes Sonnwendjoch (2224m)
    • Haidachstellwand (2192m)
    • Salvenmoser Hannes & Rutter Mike: Rofangebirge. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-936740-05-4.
    Rofangebirge
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.

    Berchtesgadener Alps

    Berchtesgadener Alps lie mostly is Southeastern Germany but extend also to Austria. Saalach and Salzach rivers and Zeller See form natural borders. Range consist of Untersberg, Lattengebirge, Raiteralpe, Hochkaltergebirge, Wattzmannstock, Göllstock, Gotzenberge, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Hochkönigsstock. The highest mountain of the area is Hochkönig (2941m), located in Austria. However, the most famous mountain of the area is Watzamann (2713m, the second highest mountain in Germany).

    Small city of Berchtesgaden is the central city of the area. Nearest major city is Salzburg on Austrian side of the border.

    by train to Berchtesgaden
    From Munich ( Timetable query and Salzburg ( Timetable query)
    • Watzmannhaus
    • Wimbachgrieshütte
    • Hocheck-Unterstandshütte
    • Wimbachschloss
    • Mitterkasernalm
    • Biwakschachtel
    • Blaueishütte

    Statistically May, September and October are best months for climbing, as June and July are wettest months. Many high routes have snow until June (or longer). Some routes however are often dry in early spring, especially East face of Untersberg is a good destination for rock climbing during that time.

    Climbing is mostly on rock. The most striking climbing destination of the area is 1800m high East Face of Watzmann, one of the biggest faces in the whole Alps. There are several routes from III upwards. Traverse over all three Watzmann summits is very popular (UIAA I-II, via ferrata, 2500m of ascent). Other popular climbing peaks are Hoher Göll and Untersberg. There are also several via ferratas. East Face of Hoher Göll is the classic ice face in the area.

    UIAA rock grades are used for rock routes. As is typical in Austria, no overall grading system is generally applies.

    • Königsspitze (2941m)
    • Watzmann (2713m)
    • Schönfeldspitze (2653m)
    • Hochkalter (2607m)
    • Schärtenspitze (2153m)
    hut info
    Information, such as telephone numbers and opening times, about all the cabins taken care of by the German Alpine Club (DAV - Deutsche Alpenverein). (choose Berchtesgadener Alpen)
    • Freytag und Berndt Wanderkarten: (Berchtesgaden, Bad Reichenhall, Königssee). , 2001. ISBN: 3850848167.
    • Kompass Wanderkarte: 14 (), 1:50 000.
    • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.4 (Berchtesgadener Alpen), 1:25 000. , 2001. ISBN: 3860384880.
    • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.1 (Nationalpark Berchtesgaden), 1:25 000. , 2001. ISBN: 3860380931.
    • Österreichische Karte: 93 (), 1:25 000. Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen.
    • Höfler Horst: Berchtesgadener Alpen. Rosenheimer Raritäten, 1993.
    • Höfler Horst & Zembusch Heinz: Watzmann - Mythos und Wilder Berg. 2001. Isbn: 3905111616.
    • Mittermeier Werner: Die Schönsten Hochtouren um Berchtesgaden. Berchtesgaden, 2002. Isbn: 3927957054.
    • Precht Albert: Hochkönig. Panico, 2002. Isbn: 3-926807-95-4.
    • Rasp Franz: Watzmann Ostwand. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1990. Isbn: 3763341412.
    • Schöner Hellmut: Berchtesgadener Alpen - Gebietsführer fur Wanderer und Bergsteiger. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001. Isbn: 3-7633-3119-0.
    • Schöner Hellmut & Kühnhauser B.: AV-Führer Berchtesgadener Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1997. Isbn: 3-7633-1127-0.
    Berchtesgaden Alps
    Area page at SummitPost.
    Berchtesgadener Alpen
    Area overview at Steinmald.de.
    Berchtesgadener land
    Die Berchtesgadener Alpen und der Chiemgau
    At Markus' Bergsport und Kletterseiten.
    Hochkönig (2941m)
    Südwand
    Gloria Patria
    • VI (eVII). 550m, 18 pitches, 6h
    Kesselpfeiler
    Kesselpfeiler (Precht)
    • VI (eVI-). 400m, 15 pitches, 4h
    Watzmann (2713m)
      Highest mountain in the German part of Berchtesgadener Alpen and the second highest in Germany. Very popular. Traverse over three summits is popular route with UIAA II, via ferrata). 1800m high east face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and has several routes with technical difficulties starting at UIAA III. There are also several climbing routes on Klein Watzmann and Watzmannkinder.
    • summits:
      • Hocheck (2651)
      • Mittelspitze (2713m)
      • Südspitze (Schönfeldspitze) (2712m)
    Ascent During the fourth ascent of Ostwand, the first fatal accident took place as Christian Schöllhorn from Munich (Germany) fell 50 meters to the Bergschrung of a glacier, later known as Shöllhorngletscher. After the accident guides were officially forbidden to climb on Ostwand. The forbid was in force until 1909. From then on over 100 people have died on the mountain.
    First ascent East face, Herman Buhl
    1784 First ascent Hocheck, botanist Georg Anton Weitzenbach
    1799 First ascent Südspitze, Valentin Stanic, chaplain of Salzburg via Hocheck
    1868 First ascent Ostawand was climbed in its northernmost part
    1871-02-01 First winter ascent Johann Ilsanker ('Stanzl') with a partner
    1881 First ascent True first ascent however was made in 1881 as http://www.watzmann.de/homepage/berg/geschichte/kederbacher/kederbacher.html Johann Grill ('Kederbacher') succeeded to climb from Eiskapelle to the South Summit. Kederbacher (1835-1917) was the first authorised mountain guide in Germany. He studied the face with a telescope from Gotzenalm and found a route via two glaciers.
    1898 First ascent Cabin was build on Hocheck in 1898. In the same year some steps were cut in stone and rope protections were placed. Thus Watzmann became one of the first via ferratas in the Alps.
    Watzmann
    Official site with routes, history etc. A must see.
    Watzmann
    Mountain page at Peakware.
    Watzmann
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    Klettern im Berchtesgadener Land
    Analyse und Auswertung des Watzmann-Gebirges
    North ridge
      Traverse Hocheck - Mittelspitze - Südspitze
      • Normal route. Wimbachbrücke 600 m - Watzmannhaus 1928 m 31/2 h, 902 Watzmannhaus 1928 m - Hocheck 2651 m I, 2 h, 921 Hocheck 2651 m - Mittelspitze 2713 m - Südspitze 2712 m II, 11/2-2 h, 922 Südspitze 2712 m - Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m 21/2-4 h, 941A Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m - Wimbachbrücke 600 m 21/2 h, 667
      • G2, II (via ferrata). 2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days)
      1871 First ascent Johann Punz and Johann Stüdl
      My Ascent
      My Ascent
      Watzmann
      Tour auf den Watzmann im September 1997
    Hocheck, Ostwand (Hocheck, East face)
      Ostpfeiler "Goedeke"
      • V+ (eVI). 650m, 22 pitches, 6,5h
    Mittelspitze, Ostwand (Mittelspitze, East face)
      Lapuch/Wieder
      • III- (eIII+). 700m, 4h
    Südspitze, Ostwand (Südspitze, East face)
    • All routes begin at Eiskapelle (900m), the lowest located place on the Alps with permanent snow. Access by boat from Königssee.
    Durch die Watzmann Ostwand
    DAV Sektion Braunschweig e. V. Mitteilungsblatt 4/99
    Berchtesgadener Weg
    • Easiest of the routes on Ostwand. Found as an accident as trying to ascent Münchner Weg in 1947.
    • III+ (eIV+). 1800m, 7h
    Route Description
    Kederbacherweg
    • IV-. 1800m
    Müchnererweg
    • IV. 1800m
    Salzburgerweg
    • IV+,A0. 1800m
    Frankfurterweg (Directissima)
    • V. 1800m
    Klein Watzmann (Watzmannfrau)
    Watzmannkinder
    Hochkalter (2607m)
    • Located very close to Watzamnn, separated from it by a beautiful Wimbachklamm valley.
      • Home to Blaueisgletscher, the northernmost glacier in the Alps. Blaueishütte (1680m), access from Hintersee (2,5h).
    Hochkalter
    Mountaion page at SummitPost.
    Blaueisumrahmung
      • Schärtenspitze Nordwand, III, 2-3h.
      • descend to Eisbodenscharte (2049m),
      • Blaueisspitze, Nordgrat, IV, 550m, 9h.
      • Traverse to Hochkalter, , 7 pitches.
    • IV (eV). 550m, 9h
    Traverse
    • Normal route. Nice traverse from Hintersee (796m) or Wimbacbrücke via Blaueis hut (1680m, possible to sleep), Schöner Fleck and Wasserwandkopf (2367m) and Kleinkalter to Hochkalter. Descent via Ofental (I) to Hintersee (769m), 5h.
    • II, mainly I, on long passages exposed. 1850m, 5,5h in ascent, 3,5h from Blaueis hut
    Hochkalter via "Schöner Fleck"
    Route page at SummitPost.
    via Blaueisgletscher
    • Most varied route on Hochkalter. From Hintersee (796m) to Blaueis hut (1680m, possible to sleep). From the hut via Blaueis glacier to Blaueisscharte and further to the summit.
    • 50°, II. 3-4h
    1874 First ascent E.Richter & J.Grill (Kederbacher)
    Blaueis Traverse
    Route page at SummitPost.
    Hoher Göll (2522m)
    • Popular peak close to Salzburg.
    • Normal routes are hikes with some easy climbing (Salzburger Steig, I; via Pflugtal, II, 5h; via Alpeltal, I), but there are tens of climbing routes, especially on West face. Some routes on the West face are extremely difficult, for example "caramouche" UIAA IX+/X-, done by famous Alexander & Thomas Huber.
    Hoher Göll
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    West Face (Westwand)
    Kleiner Trichter
    • VII or V+,A0 (eVI). 400m, 16 pitches, 4,5h
    Brandenstein (Alte Westwand)
    • Classic. Mostly solid, slabby rock. In the lower part, several more direct variants possible (IV or more). Bolts on stands.
    • III+ (eIV-) (passages), mostly II and III. 280m, 10 pitches, 2,5h
    1920 First ascent Brandenstein
    Hoher Göll, Westwand
    Route description by Andreas Krebs
    West Face (Direkte Westwand)
    • Partially loose and dangerous
    • V- (passages), IV+. 4h
    1921 First ascent J.Aschauer & J.Kurz
    West Ridge
    • Long panoramic ridge
    • IV (one passage), III (passages), often II and walking. 6-8h from Scharitzkehl
    1900 First ascent A. & G.Schulze
    East Face (Ostwand)
    East Face (Ostwand)
    • Also possible during the winter (April-May), then 820m ice route, 50°
    • III (passages), snow up to 50°. 8-9h from Golling
    1899 First ascent H.Pfanul & Th. Maischberger
    Skiing Göll East Face
    Route page at SummitPost.
    East Face diedre (Kurt-Lager Gedächtnisweg)
    • IV+ (one passage), IV and III. 800m, 3-5h
    1976 First ascent F.Gruber, H.Hüttiger & G.Breistein
    East Face Direct (gerade Ostwand)
    • IV. 900m, 5h
    1832 First ascent Höllenbacher & Holzner
    North Face (Nordwand)
    North Face Direct (Gerade Nordwand)
    SW Face
    SW Face
    • IV. 3h
    1924 First ascent E.Gretschmann & J.Schmidt
    Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
    • Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle's Nest, 1809m)
    Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
    • Via ferrata from Kehlsteinhaus. Can be climbed also without using the via ferrata, then II-IV depending on the chosen line.
    • I. 2,5-3h
    Mannlgrat
    Route page at SummitPost.
    Salzburger Steig
    • From Purtscheller Haus
    • I. 2,5h
    1801 First ascent Stanig (probably earlier ascent by hunters)
    Torrenerjoch-Hoher Göll traverse
    • Popular ridge traverse from Torrenerjoch (Stahlhaus, easily reached Jennerbahn ski lift) via Jägerkreuz, Hohes Brett, Grosse Archenkopf and Kleine Archenkopf to summit. Descent either along Mannlgrat to Kehlsteinhaus or Salzburger Steig to Purtscheller Haus.
    • I, partially secured with steel cables. 4-5h
    From Torrenerjoch
    Route page at SummitPost.
    Hoher Göll
    My ascent
    Untersberg (1973m)
    • Located on the border of Germany and Austria, very close to city of Salzburg.
    • summits:
      • Salzburger Hochtron (1853m)
      • Berchtesgadener Hochtron (1973m)
    Diverse routes on Untersberg
    Route description by Andreas Krebs
    Berchtesgadener Hochtron, South Face
    East Face
    • III-, II. 390m, 2-3h
    1908 First ascent Wieder & Hütter
    Direkter Südostpfeiler (Schimkepfeiler)
    • Popular route, stands equipped
    • V+ (passages), mostly V and IV (or V-, A0). 300m, 3-4h
    1943 First ascent H.Reisch & K.Schimke
    South Face "Barth-Niedermayer"
    • Very popular, bolted
    • III+ (eIV) (passages), otherwise III and II. 230m (9 pitches), 2-3h
    1907 First ascent Barth & Niedermayer
    Barthkamin
    • IV+ (eVI+). 200m, 10 pitches
    Hinterstoisser/Kurz
    • VI or V,A0 (eVI+). 200m, 9 pitches
    Salzburger Hochtron, East Face
    Dreierweg
    • Stands equipped
    • III. 300m, 2h
    1923 First ascent L.Schifferer, H.Feichtner & V.Raitmayer
    Diedre (Oswandverschneidung)
    • Slab & crack climbing on good rock. Stands equipped
    • IV- (passages), otherwise III. 250m, 2h
    First ascent E.Schlager & S.Dumler
    Salzburger Hochtron, South Face
    South Arete
    • IV, mostly IV- and III. 150m (4 pitches), 2h
    1929 First ascent Otte & co.
    South Face
    • Very popular.
    • III- (10m), otherwise II. 100m, 1h
    1900 First ascent G.Starke

    Dachstein

    Further to the east lies Dachstein group. The area is very compact with dozen peaks above 2500m. The highest peak is Hohe Dachstein at 2995m. Other main peaks are Torstein (2948m) in the westernmost part of the massif, Mitterspitz (2926m) and Kopperkarstein (2863m). It is more glaciated than usually glacier free Bavarian Alps and it features the easternmost glaciers in the Alps. 7 of the glaciers are located on the north side of the main ridge and one on the south side.

    Main bases are Ramsau (1136m) on the south side and Gosau (779m) on the north side. The area is very popular and features many huts, Dachstein Südwandhütte (1871m) and Adamekhütte (2196m) are probably the most popular among the climbers. There is a cable car fromRamsau to Hunerkogel which facilitates easy access to normal routes on Hohe Dachstein.

    Besides few glacier routes it has several via ferratas and rock routes. South face of the main ridge is the most interesting feature from the climber's point of view. It is 8 km wide and 1000 meters high at the westernmost part at Torstein and only slightly less on Hohe Dachstein. Steinerweg and Pichlweg on the South Face of Hoher Dachstein are probably famous rock climbs. Torstein (2948m) Eisrinne (45-55°, 300m) is the classic ice route of the area. During the winter Dachstein is great for ski mountaineering.

    • AV-Karte: 14 (Dachstein Group".), 1:25 000.
    • Österreichische Karte: 126 (Radstadt), 1:50 000.
    • Österreichische Karte: 127 (Schladming), 1:50 000.
    • Österreichische Karte: 96 (Bad Ischl), 1:50 000.
    • End Willi: Alpenvereisnführer Dachsteingruppe Ost. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
    • Fischbacher Andi, Schall Kurt, Hoi Klaus & Lidl Ewald: Kletterarena Dachstein Süd - Auswahlführer für Klettersteige, Genussklettern, Sportklettern, Klettergärten und alpine Klassiker. Schall Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 3-900533-36-9.
    Hoher Dachstein (2995m)
    • Hoher Dachstein is the main peak of the Dachsteingruppe, the highest peak of Styria and Upper Austria and the second highest peak of the Northern Limestone Alps.
    • It's a lofty, rugged and beautiful peak, with glaciers to the North and a steep rock face to the south.
    1832 First ascent P.Gappmeyer
    Hoher Dachstein
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    East Face
    • Approach by cable car to Hunerkoger (2694m)
    Randkluftsteig (NE Face)
    • Normal route. Via Ferrata through East Face. Via ferrata starts at Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet Hut, 2720m).
    • Via ferrata B/C, UIAA II. 250m
    Via Ferrata through East Face
    Route page at SummitPost.
    West side
    • From Filzmoos (1055m) to Adamek hut (2196m)
    Linzer Weg (West Ridge) & Dachstein Traverse (E-W)
    • Via Gosau glacier to Obere Windlucke on the West Ridge. Also possible from Hunerkogel ski lift. Then along the west ridge (fixed gear) to the summit. West ridge is the easiest route on Hohe Dachstein. Descent via East face Klettersteig.
    • PD- (G3), I+, via ferrata A/B. 250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
    Westgrat - Koppenkarstein 2863m
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    South Face
    Der Johann (South Face Ferrata)
    • Very difficult Via ferrata from Dachstein Südwand hut (1871m) to Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet hut, 2720m). Along the East face via ferrata to summit.
    • Via Ferrata D/E. 1050m, Approach 2h, via ferrata 3h, descent to cable car 0,5h
    Der Johann
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    Steinerweg
    • Classic. Alpine rock classic.
    • V- & A0, mostly IV and IV+. 850m (24 pitches), 5-9h
    1909 First ascent G. & F. Steiner
    Steinerweg
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    Pichlweg
    • IV-, mostly II and III+. 700m, 4-6h
    1901-07-27 First ascent E. Pichl, F. Gams & F. Zimmer
    Pichlweg
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    Torstein (2948m)
    • Located in the westernmost part of the massif.
      • The second highest peak of the massif
    First ascent
    Ostgrat & obere Südflanke
    • From Adamekhütte (2196m)
    • II
    Torstein Eisrinne
    • From Adamekhütte (2196m)
    • 45-55°. 300m

    Central Eastern Alps (Austrian Alps)

    West from the Bernina and Central Alps and between Northern and Southern ranges lie Central Eastern Alps, that consist of several mountain groups from. Western groups are glaciated, some of them excessively so. The area is best known for high-quality snow and ice climbing and ski-mountaineering. However, most areas feature good rock climbing, especially on the rocky towers of Zillertaler Alps. The most famous mountains of the area is Grossglockner (3798m) in Hohe Tauern. Further to the east, mountains are much lower and not glaciated.

    While the mountains in the Central Eastern Alps are not as high and generally not as steep as in Western Alps, the normal routes on the most high peaks are in the F-PD range. There are, however, several more demanding classics on snow, ice or mixed ground, especially on and around Grossglockner and in Zillertal (Hochfeiler).

    Lot of quality waterfall ice climbing is found in Austria. Propably the Best-known areas are Pitztal, Zillertal, Gasteinertal and Rudolfshütte (Grossglockner area).

    Getting information about the climbs may not always be straight forward for foreign climbers, as most of the information is only available in German. Also, typically no overall alpine grade is used.

    • Friedrich C: Eiskalt 3: Bregenz & Garmisch. Panico, 1998. Isbn: 3926807649.
    • Jentzsch-rabl Axel, Abler Robert & Höllwarth Michael: Eisklettern in Tirol. Alpinverlag, 2005. Isbn: 3950092013.
    • Pasold Achim: Vorarlberg. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-926807-64-6.
    Climbing in Austria
    Plenty of good route descriptions about different kinds of climbs. Some of the descriptions include topos, photos and/or maps of the routes. Absolutely essential to any climber considering trip to Austrian Alps.
    Tirol
    Weather Reports, Panorama Camera, Accomodation, Ski Areas etc.

    Rhätikon & Silvretta

    Silvretta group is located at the easternmost part of Central Alps at the border between Switzerland and Austria. The most famous, although not the highest, mountain of the area is Piz Buin (3312m), located in Austria. The highest peak of the range, Piz Linard (3409m) is located in Switzerland. Silvretta group is heavily glaciated and is popular with summer and winter tourists.

    Rätikon (or Rhätikon) is located in the the northern part of Swiss canton Grisons (Graubünden). It is popular among rock-climbers, especially amond alpine sport climbers, and hikers.

    • AV-Karte: 26 (Silvretta), 1:25 000.
    • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 37 (Rätikon-Silvretta-Verwall), 1:100 000.
    • Swiss Landeskarte: 1198 (Silvretta), 1:25 000.
    • Condrou Bernard: Bündner Alpen 8 - Silvretta und Samnaun. SAC Verlag.
    • Eggenberger Vital: SAC-Kletterführer Rätikon. SAC Verlag, 1988.
    • Flaig: Alpenvereinsführer Silvretta Alpin. Bergverlag Rother.
    • Luginbühl Mario & Achim Pasold: Rätikon. Panico, 2002. Isbn: 3-926807-38-5.
    • Mathis Peter & Nuber Jörg: Rätikon Kletterführer. Isbn: 3926807385.
    • Meinherz Paul: Bündner Alpen 7 - Rätikon. SAC Verlag, 1989.
    • Pasold Achim: Kletterführer Rätikon. 1995.
    • Williams Jeff: Silvretta Alps. West Col, 1995.
    Austria's West: The Rätikon
    General information about the area at therucksack.net.
    Rätikon Climbing
    Good information about the area with several topos.
    Piz Linard (3411m)
    • Located in southern part of the group, some 25km away from Piz Kesch.
      • The highest mountain in Silvretta group. Quite popular peak with several routes. SE Ridge (III), S Ridge (II) and North Ridge (II) all offer more interesting alternative to the normal route.
    South side
    • Approach from Lavin im Unterengadin to Chamanna dal Linard hut (2327m)
    South Face and SW Ridge
    • AD (G3), II-III. 4-5h
    Weilenmannrinne (South Flank)
    • Normal route. Easiest route. Stone fall dander.
    • PD, II (passages) and I. 550m. 1600m, 10-11h roundtrip
    Piz Buin (3312m)
      Piz Buin is the most famous mountain in the area and very popular both in summer and in winter.
    • summits:
      • Grand Piz Buin (East summit) (3312m)
      • Little Piz Buin (West summit) (3255m)
    1865 First ascent J.A. Specht, J. Weilenmann, Pöll & Pfitcher
    Piz Buin
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    West side
    via W Flank & NW Ridge
    • Normal route. From Bielerhöhe (2036m) via Wiesbadener Hut (2443m). Either across Vermont glacier or via Ochsentaler glacier (crevasses) to Buinlücke (3056m). From there via West Face and NW Ridge to summit.
    • F+/PD with I+/II, 30°. 1280m, 4h
    West Ridge
    • From Guarda (1653m) via Chamanna Tuoi (2250m), Crosnel (2659m), Fuorcla Buin (3054m) and West Flank.
    • G3, 45°. 1700m, 6,5h
    Silvrettahorn (3244m)
    South Ridge
    • Normal route. From Wiesbadener hut over broken glacier
    • PD- (G2), II. 3h
    Traverse from Schneeglocke
    • Normal route. From Bielerhöhe to Schneeglocke (3223m), 4,4h. Either from west (I) or via North Face (short snow face, 45°). Traverse to Silvrettahorn over easy ridge (I).
    • PD-, 1 (45°). 1h
    Dreiländerspitze (3197m)
    • Located in Silvretta, on the border between Switzerland, and Austrian Cantons of Tyrol and Vorarlberg.
      • Architecrutally beautiful summit of ice and rock.
    1870-07-14 First ascent Doctor Theodor Petersen with unknown companions
    NW Flank & W Ridge
    • Normal route. Easy glacier route with short snow slope and rock ridge. From Galtür (1584m) to Wiesbadener Hut (2443m) via Vermunt Glacier.
    • F+/PD (G3), I-II on the rock ridge between north summit and south summit, 30°. 750m, 2,5-3h

    Ötztaler Alps

    Ötztal range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objectives among the climbers are Wildspitze (3768m), Weisskugel (3738m)and Similaun (3599m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD. North Faces of Wildspitze and Weisskugel are famous harder ice routes of the area.

    • Alpenverein: 30/2 (Ötztaler Alpen/Weisskugel), 1:25 000.
    • Alpenverein: 30/6 (Ötztaler Alpen/Wildspitze), 1:25 000.
    • Kompass Wanderkarte: 43 (Ötztaler Alpen), 1:50 000.
    • Kompass Wanderkarte: WKS2 (Südliche Ötztaler Alpen).
    • Klier W.: Gebietsführer Ötztaler Alpen. Bergverlag Rother.
    • Klier W.: Alpenvereinführer Ötztaler Alpen alpin. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
    • Williams Jeff: Oetztaler Alps. West Col Publishing, 2000. Isbn: 0906227690.
    Wildspitze (3770m)
    • Highest mountain in Ötztal Alps and 2nd highest mountain is Austria.
    • Easiest ascent is short glacier climb thanks to cable car leading to Mittelberg. North and NW Faces are classic ice faces (300m).
    • summits:
      • South summit (3770m)
      • North summit (3765m)
    Wildspitze
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    Wildspitze
    Mountain page at Peakware.
    Routes on Wildspitze
    North Face (Nordwand)
    • Approach 1070m, 4,5h from Taschachhaus (2432m)
    North Face (Nordwand)
    • Classic. Classic ice climb with height of around 300m. During the summer passing the bergschrund can be the crux.
    • AD+, max. 50°. 300m, 2,5h
    The North Face
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    West side
    • From Taschach Haus over Taschachferner or from Breslauer Hut (2840m, 2h from Vent) in the south via via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3). Also possible from Braunsweger hut (5h) or Mittelberg cable car station (4h).
    via Mitterkarjoch
    • Normal route. Glacier climb starting from Breslauer Hut (2840m) via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3).
    • F/PD, 45°, I-II, M3. 950m, 3,5h
    Wildspitze via Normal Route
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    Wildspitze via Normal Route
    Weisskugel (Palla Bianca) (3739m)
    • Second highest peak in Ötztal and 3rd highest in Austria.
    • Can be climbed from five huts in different valleys. The normal routes join at Hinterersjoch (3471m). All normal routes are basic glacier ascents (F/PD-).
    Weisskugel
    Mountain page at SummitPost.
    Weisskugel
    Mountain page at Peakware.
    North side
    • From Weisskukugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m)
    North Ridge
    • Long glacier ridge route, one of the nicest routes in Ötztal. Both shorter and nicer than the normal route.
    • PD+, 40°, III+. 1250m, 6-8h roundtrip from Weisskukugel hut
    North Ridge
    Route page at SummitPost.
    NW Face
    • Good conditions normally only during the spring (around eastern)
    • 55°. 350m (face), 1200m (from Weisskukugel hut), 5-6h
    Weisskugel NW-Wand
    Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
    Normal route
    • Normal route. The easiest way up is from Weisskugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m) up the Langtauferer Ferner to the Weisskugeljoch (this can be reached also from Hochjochspiz with similar difficulty). After that up to the summit in a loop from south east.
    • PD-, I. 1250m, 4h
    East Ridge
    • From Rifugio Bellavista (2842m)
    • AD-, III, mostly I-II, 40°. 900m, 5h
    Similaun (3606m)
    • Located in Ötztal, Tirol,right on the border between Austria and Italy.
    Similaun
    Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.

    Stubaier Alps

    Stubai range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objective among the climbers is Zuckerhütl (3507m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD.

    • Zuckerhütl (3505m)
    • Ruderhofsspitze (3474m)
    • Östliche Seespitze (3416m)
    • Wilder Freiger (3418m)
    • Habicht (3277m)
    • Alpenvereinskarte: 31/1 (Hochstubai), 1:25 000.
    • Alpenvereinskarte: