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[General | Climbing technique | Safety | References]

Information

"Good judgement is the result of experience. Experience is the result of bad judgement."

anonymous

General

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: Trusting your life solely to something you read on the internet is just plain stupid. Get corroboration from a more reliable source, use your common sense, don't get yourself killed, and don't come crying to me (or the people I've quoted) if you do.

FAQ or RTFM

TradGirl FAQ: FAQ at Dawn Alguard's Rock Climbing Web Site. Constantly growing Climbing FAQ from questions that are most frequently asked on rec.climbing and the answers that are given there. Nicely organised and informative. A definite must see. By Dawn Alguard at TradGirl.
Usein kysytyt kysymykset: Not nearly as extensive as TradGirl FAQ but still worth seeing.

Forms of climbing

Climbing comes in different forms. These do vary quite a bit in regards to what different forms of climbing require of the climber (both in regards of the necessary skills and equipment). Usually at least the following forms of climbing are distinguished:

Indoor climbing
Rock climbing. Rock climbing is very commonly subdivided into sport climbing and trad climbing based on whether bolts are used for protection or not.
Mountaineering/Alpine climbing
Ice climbing

Where one form of climbing starts and where it ends is anything but hard cut. This is especially true in distinguishing rock climbing and ice climbing from alpine climbing.

There are also several styles of climbing. Mostly this affects rock climbing, but to some extent same differentation applies to other forms of climbing as well.

bouldering
free climbing
aid climbing

How rope is used distinguished toproping and lead climbing. Topropings is only feasible on single-pitch climbs. It is normally done by novices and when training, whether it be learning the new route or pushing the physical or technical boundaries of climbers ability. Climbs is not considered done unless it was lead.

There are also numerous styles within lead climbing, depending on

amount of prior knowledge of the route
whether gear was placed during the lead or if it was preplaced

Free climbing the route from ground up, with no previous attemps on the route and placing the gear on lead (whether it be clipping quickdraws to bolts, placing trad gear or ice protection) is considered the purest form of climbing.

Climbing - how to get started
Forms of climbing: Explanation and distinction of various forms of climbing in Finnish

Climbing vocabulary

Understanding climbing vocabulary is often paramount to understanding articles in climbing magazines. Sometimes it may be crucial part to route planning and safety as well.

Climbing dictionary: Climbing terms translations between English, French and Italian. By Guillaume Dargaud at What do you want to climb today?.
Climbing Jargon
Climbing terms & tools: Good glossary of climbing-related terms. Explanations in English. At Latvian Youth Sport Center of Mountaineering..
The Climbing Dictionary: This dictionary gives definitions of American and English climbing terms and translations of those terms in other languages. Good dictionary. By Carl Ockier.

Grading

Climbing world is full of different systems, with which it is possible to evaluate the difficulty and seriousness of a given route. This document aims to ease figuring out how hard is a given grade in a given system. With all those fancy grades, it is quite possible to become grade-obsessed, picking routes primarily because of the grade. This is by no means the purpose of this document and is strongly discouraged. Climbers choosing to do so only have themselves to blame for missing many very enjoyable climbs. No grading system is capable of measuring the quality of climbing or how enjoyable and the climbs are. There are many other more rewarding ways to choose climbs.<<more>>

Climbing technique

Climbing basics

Einsteigerkurs Teil 1 (2-2000) - Trendsport Klettern

At Klettern.

Einsteigerkurs Teil 2 (3-2000) - Sportklettern

At Klettern.

Einsteigerkurs Teil 3 (4-2000) - Der Einstieg ins Alpine Klettern

At Klettern.

Einsteigerkurs Teil 4 (5-2000) - Technisches Klettern

At Klettern.

Einsteigerkurs Teil 5 (6-2000) - Schritt für Schritt ins steile Eis

At Klettern.

Einsteigerkurs Teil 6 (1-2001) - Einstieg ins Expeditionsbergsteigen

At Klettern.

Instruction by Petzl

Gear manufacturer Petzl site also includes plenty of instructions on proper use of climbing gear. The site is divided into multiple sections:

At Petzl.

Tech Tips

Tech Tips section of Chockstone. Here you'll find a few ideas documented from various climbing mentors and other resources that might get you out of trouble.

TechTips

Get that extra edge you need to suceed on your dream climb with Climbing's Tech Tips - Aid, Alpine, Sport, and Trad Beta for the vertical world. Illustrations by Mike Clelland, Mike Tea and Kieth Svihovec. At Climbing Magazine.

Belaying

Avoiding Belay Accidents Part 1: Using Auto-locks safely By Adrian Berry at Planet-Climbing.com.
Double Rope Technique: Answers the questions: What is double rope technique and why to use it? By Adrian Hill.
Fall Factor: At Beal.
Impact Force: At Beal.
Outdoor Action Guide to Belaying: By Rick Curtis.
Rock Climbing Instruction: Downloadable informative documents about various techniques. At E.C. Joe - Vertical Logistics.
Umfädeln am Stand (Heft 3-2002): By Ralph Stöhr at Klettern.

Rappelling

Knots

Climerware Knots: At climerware.
Knot knowledge: Climbing knots with photo illustrations. Very good.

Self rescue

Essential skill for all climbers aspiring to climb multipitch or alpine routes, as self rescue is the only kind of rescue climbers can realistically rely on in many situations. Yet neglegted by many (most?) climbers. Reading a good book self rescue techniques, then training at least most commonly needed techniques is highly recommended. Seld rescue covers various techniques depending on the scenario, but at least the following are common:

Some of the techniques are exactly the same than those used in crevasse rescue. Hauling and rope ascending techniques in their turn are commonly used in aid/big wall climbing as well.

Breaking free — escape a belay quickly and safely
Hauling The Second: Counterbalanced Hoist
How to Lock Off Belay Device

Rock climbing

General

Getting Started: Rock climbing is one of the fastest growing sports in the UK. The combination between the mental and physical demands of the sport provide a challenging, fulfilling, and exciting new activity. This article will look at how to get into climbing in the UK if you've never been before, and will be of help if you've had a go, and would like to improve. By Ben Heason at Planet-Climbing.com.
Off-World: "Here I am, three years later. The wounds have healed and the memories fade. I'm still no more able to climb an offwidth than I can play the bagpipes, I can't. Don't do off-widths, don't want to. Of course that is a lie, I just don't want to fail, as Homer Simpson once said, "you tried your best and failed miserably. The lesson is, never try"..." By Adrian Berry at Planet-Climbing.com.
TechTips: Get that extra edge you need to suceed on your dream climb with Climbing's Tech Tips - Aid, Alpine, Sport, and Trad Beta for the vertical world. Illustrations by Mike Clelland, Mike Tea and Kieth Svihovec. At Climbing Magazine.
The mantelshelf: 'Naughty', 'unfortunate', 'frustrating' and 'ungradable'. You decide... By Alastair Lee at Planet-Climbing.com.

Trad protection

Rock Climbing: Placing rock protection At Association of Canadian Mountain Guides.
The whole natural art of protection: By The 1972 Chouinard Catalog.

Aid climbing

Big Wall Basics: Want to climb some big walls? Here’s a run down of what you’ll need... By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Techno für Einsteiger: Das kleine Einmaleins der Technotricks kann auch dem begeisterten Freikletterer nicht schaden. By Ralph Stöhr at Klettern.
Why, How and Where of Big Wall Climbing Part I: If you've ever fancied a go at big wall climbing - Ian Parnell provides all the essential info, right here! By Ian Parnell at Planet-Climbing.com.

Alpinism & ice climbing

Alpine skills: It seems that regardless of mental or physical preparation, on first acquaintance the sheer scale of the Alps is always daunting. To the British climber the environment is at first an alien one with the skills gained during winter no longer adequate. It is time to begin the learning process again!
Alpinism: Plenty of information about the alpinism. By Hans Wennerström.
Alpinism - Getting Started: Alpine equipment rundown By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Guide to Outdoor Navigation: From knowing your 5 D's, to the latest in GPS navigation, an 8 part guide to not getting lost. By Tim Mosedale at Planet-Climbing.com.
Higher Ground: Four top tips on how to push your winter climbing to a higher level this season by Andy Kirkpatrick By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
How to build a snow cave?: At Teepakki.
How to build Z-pulley?: By Nestori Simola.
Mountaineering & ice climbing: Glacier travel and rescue. At Association of Canadian Mountain Guides.
Papa's got a brand new (Bivvy) Bag: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
TechTips: Get that extra edge you need to suceed on your dream climb with Climbing's Tech Tips - Aid, Alpine, Sport, and Trad Beta for the vertical world. Illustrations by Mike Clelland, Mike Tea and Kieth Svihovec. At Climbing Magazine.
The Science of Suffering: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.

Equipment

While the most important piece of climbing equipment is the knowledge how to climb and how to use standard gear, having the right gear for the job certainly makes a difference.

Articles, tips & tricks

General

Belay Device Buyers Guide: Choosing the right belay device, and learning to use it properly is one of the key skills required to climb safely, and is also one of the more difficult skills to check. Whereas knots and buckles can be examined by more experienced partners at the start of a climb, the time when belaying is most crucial is when the climbers are separated by distance. Also, as holding falls is not a regularly practiced skill for most climbers, it is all the more crucial to get the right training, and the right belay device. By Shane Ohly and Adrian Berry at Planet-Climbing.com.
Choosing the right type of rope: At Beal.
Eqipment Notes: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Rope care instructions: At Beal.
Selecting Belay Device: At J.L.Waters & Co. Inc..

Rock gear

Active Protection Device Size Ranges: By Alexander Cooper at TradGirl.
Building a Rack: Information about building the first trad climbing rack. By Abrahm Lustgarten at GORP.
Climerware Gear: At climerware.
Know Your Cams: By Adrian Berry at Planet-Climbing.com.
Passive Protection Device Size Ranges: By Alexander Cooper at TradGirl.
Rock Gear: By Trevor Suddaby at On the Edge.
Rock Gear part 2: By Trevor Suddaby at On the Edge.

Ice & Alpine

Alpine Gear: By Tim Mosedale at On the Edge.
Alpine Rucksacks: Thoughts and Ideas on the Best Alpine Climbing 'Sack By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Avalanche Transceivers for Climbers: A guide to avalanche transceivers for climbers. By Adrian Berry at Planet-Climbing.com.
Gifts from the Gods: Benefitting from extreme ice gear developments. By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
High Performance Ice Gear: By Dave Pegler at On the Edge.
High Performance Ice Gear part 2: By Dave Pegler at On the Edge.
Mountain Gear DIY: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Papa's got a brand new (Bivvy) Bag: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Pointing the Way: Guide to crampons By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.
Winter Alpine Special: Extreme Alpine: By Andy Kirkpatrick at High Mountain Sports.

Gear lists

Ausrüstungsliste D: Equipment list for climbing trips in difficulty grades of II-III.
Equipment checklist: Checklists for different kind of mountain activities At Bergsport Kolb.
Equipment lists: Information about equipment needed for different kinds of climbing. In Finnish.
Gear-list: List of gear you should take with you. By Berndt Busam at Bernds Homepage.

Reviews

Alpinist Mountain Standards: The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. Uses five-star rating system.
Guides Choice: Guides Choice is a sales mark of the American Alpine Institute (AAI), and it encompasses the extensive field testing done by AAI guides. AAI is an international guide service and climbing school that offers expeditions, ascents, and training courses in 6 states and 16 countries.
High Mountain Sports: Gear reviews, Mountain Info At Planet-Climbing.com.
Outdoor Review gear reviews [Climbing & Mountaineering]: Readers reviews of various pieces of equipment. Includes sections for Climbing as well as for hiking/backpacking. In a word: excellent reference for anyone considering to buy new gear.
SummitPost gear reviews

Manufacturers

Gear manufacturers

Shops

Gear shops: Gear shops (mainly European).

Training

Denali Training Regimen: "So you want to climb McKinley?" A Training Program for the Prospective Mountaineering Hardman By Stacy Taniguchi at Alpine Ascents International.
Neil Gresham's Training Tips: At DMM.
Training: At Planet-Climbing.com.
Training for Alpine climbing: Training for mountaineering: how the heck? By Kathy Cosley at Cosley & Houston.

Safety

Avalanche awareness

3x3 Avalanche Assessment Process: 3x3 Table and Reduction Method are to be used together to obtain acceptable avalanche risk.
Avalanche Education Center: Welcome to the internet avalanche awareness and education center. This is the place to learn about snow avalanches, avoiding and/or mitigating the risk from avalanches, avalanche resuce beacons, and much more. At Cyberspace Snow and Avalanche Center.
Avoiding Avalanches: 10 Terrain Features to Watch for: At www.camp4.com.
Cyberspace Snow and Avalanche Center
Lumivyöryt: At Teepakki.
SportScotland Avalanche Information Service

Medical aspects

Bergsteiger-Apotheke
Durchblick am Berg
High Altitude Medicine Guide: Current medical information on the prevention, recognition, and treatment of altitude illness, as well as other health issues affecting travellers to high mountainous regions of the world. Information content is designed for the use of physicians and non-physicians alike. Also includes general mountain-related links as well as pictures. Great site.
Höhenanpassung - Akklimatisation und Adaption: By Hartmut Bielefeldt at Hartmut's mountaineering page.
Steve & Judy's Altitude & Acclimatization Page: By Steve & Judy Pardoe.
Steve & Judy's Medical Pages: By Steve & Judy Pardoe.
Sunglasses: By Kai Larsson.

References

Online books

Basics of rock climbing: By Jarmo Määttälä at Mountainshop.
Ice climbing guide: By Leo Määttälä at Mountainshop.
Technical Alpine Climbing for Two-Person Teams: Online book. Excellent piece of work. If you've been bitten by a mountain fever you can not afford to miss this one. Foreword of Cameron McPherson Smith: "This is an incomplete manuscript, written in 1992, which was under contract to be published by ICS books, of Merilville, Indiana, with Jim Bridwell as editor of the work. Unfortunately, Bridwell was overwhelmed with his slide tour, and he dropped the project. I now find myself without the time or resources to complete and edit the text, as well as complete the 80 or so illustrations needed. For this reason, and a few others, I am putting the text on-line for the use of fellow alpinists, particularly those just beginning in this realm of adventure. I sincerely hope that there will be something of interest and value here for climbers of all levels of experience, but I would like to emphasize that this manuscript is written for climbers with some basic competence in roped movement on rock, at least, and perhaps ice and snow. It is to the climber of about two or three years' experience, who knows something of their limits and ambitions, and who is seeking adventure a bit beyond that which they find at crag climbs, that I really address this text." By Cameron McPherson Smith.

Bookstores

amazon.co.uk
amazon.com
amazon.de
Barness & Noble
Buch AG
Cordee: Cordee is Europe's largest specialist wholesaler of recreation/travel books, maps and videos since 1973. Stocks many items not normally available in large book stores.
RippingYarns: A small publishing company which specialises in republishing old out-of-print mountaineering books.

[General | Climbing technique | Safety | References]

Information

General

FAQ or RTFM

Forms of climbing

Climbing vocabulary

Grading

Climbing technique

Climbing basics

Belaying

Rappelling

Knots

Self rescue

Rock climbing

General

Trad protection

Aid climbing

Alpinism & ice climbing

Equipment

Articles, tips & tricks

General

Rock gear

Ice & Alpine

Gear lists

Reviews

Manufacturers

Shops

Training

Safety

Avalanche awareness

Medical aspects

References

Recommended readings

Basics

Further information

Online books

Bookstores