Grading/Aid
Unlike grading systems of other types of climbing, the same system is used to grade all aid climbs (which is not to say that all techno routes featuring same grade would be equally hard). Aid climbing grades indicates mainly the difficulty and quality of protection placements. Minor (upward) changes in difficulty can be marked with +-sign. Aid climbing grade are subject to change because of developing equipment and wear of the rock. For climbs, where no destructive means of protection (most notably pitons) is used, "A" is replaced with "C" (as in clean).
| Grade |
Description |
| A0 |
Fixed pieces of protection are already in place. Possibly A0 climb can involve the climber placing slings to climb some passages. Few classic alpine ascents have fixed gear that make the routes significantly easier than they would be without the geasr. Such routes include Matterhorn, Hörnligrat (AD-, III and A0) and Dent du Géant, Normal Route (SW Face, AD, III, A0). |
| A1 |
Pitons, hooks, wedges etc. are relatively easy to put in place. Does not yet require much force and vitually every placement is perfectly capable of holding a fall. The use of full aid technique and gear (such as ladders) are not always necessary. A1 climbs often get climbed "French free", meaning that the climber uses protection to aid progress by simply grabbing them. |
| A2 |
Protection placements are fairly good, but placing the pieces may not be without difficulties. Between good placements there may be some less perfect placements. |
| A3 |
A3 is hard aid. Normally leading a pitch takes several hours and there are potentially falls of 20-25 meters length, but without danger of grounding or severe injury. Active testing of soundness of placement is required. |
| A4 |
Serious aid. Fall potential up to 35 meters with bad landings. Placements hold only body weigth. |
| A5 |
Placements hold only body weight for entire pitch with no solid protection. A leader fall at the top of an A5 pitch means a 100 meter fall with possibly lethal concequences. |
Links to aid climbing grades
-
A Few Words on Ratings and Grades - Aid Climbing
- By Yuuko Yamaguchi..
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Aid Climbing - Ratings and Grades
- At Latvian Youth Sport Center of Mountaineering.
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Aid Ratings
- Explanation of the A1 to A5 grading system for aid- climbing pitches By John Middendorf.
