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Hyknusa

While browsing for new films and something that has possible slipped under the radar I came across to this: Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson in Sardinia. It is a trailer of their trip to Sardinia, during which they repeated Sardinia's hardest multi-pitch climbs.

The featured climbs include: , and . While possibly slightly out of scope of this site, it was certainly very entertaining, so I dug deeper to find the whole length video available here: Episode 1 - Gravité Zéro 2013 di MONTAGNETV.

The Last Great Climb

The Last Great Climb movie poster. Credit: Posing Productions,  Shot on 2014-01-20 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.
The Last Great Climb movie poster. Credit: Posing Productions, Shot on 2014-01-20 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.

While on Topic of upcoming films, there appears to be another interesting looking project in the making. The Last Great Climb covers the first ascent of NE ridgeUlvetanna2931mNE ridge5.12,A2/E6 6b,A2/C235 pitches, 1750m by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone.

If the previous work of director Alastair Lee and the trailer is anything to go by, some spectacular footage should be a given. The feature is third part of the trilogy by the same team, the two previous ones are (North Peak, NW faceMount Asgard2015mNorth Peak, NW sideE6 6b) and Autana . BTW, there's also another movie about difficult rock climbing on Mount Asgard: Asgard Jamming .

La vie de Guy Lacelle

I stumbled on this short film commemorates legendary ice climber Guy Lacelle: La vie de Guy Lacelle . There appears to be some films of similar length available in Yotube and few other places, not sure whether this is the same film or not. Anyway, HD download is pretty cheap on Alstrin Films site.

Kurt Diemberger

Source: . Credit: Abe Books,  Licensed under: Public Domain.
Source: Abe Books. Credit: Abe Books, Licensed under: Public Domain.

When shopping for The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes.Rebuffat, GastonMountaineers Books1996The definitive hard backed 'inspirational' guide to the Mont Blanc area, illustrated throughout. The internationally renowned Gaston Rébuffat here provides an outstandingly comprehensive step-by-step description of his 100 finest climbing routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The author begins by taking the reader up the fairly simple routes, such as the traverse from the Clocher to the Clochetons de Planpraz and the South-East arête of the Aiguille de I'Index, gradually progresses to the more difficult routes of the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Hirondelles arête on the Grandes Jorasses, and finally climaxes in the superb climbs on the Droites North Face and the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc.Each route has at least a double-page spread of text, photographs and a map of the area of the route. Rébuffat explains his reasons for choosing the individual route and then gives information on the first ascent, height, difficulty, time, equipment, starting point and an account in outline and detail of the ascent and, where necessary, the descent as well. Rébuffat's vivid and authoritative text is made even more exciting by the numerous exceptionally beautiful photographs and specially drawn maps. The translation by Drs Jane and Colin Taylor reproduces faithfully the quality and style of the original French text. Colin Taylor will already be well-known to many mountaineers as the General Editor of the Alpine Club guidebooks which include this area.08988647710898864771Guidebooken I came by Kurt Diemberger Omnibus Kurt Diemberger Omnibus: Summits & Secrets, the Endless Knot, Spirits of the Air.Diemberger, KurtMountaineers Books1999Kurt Diemberger is a the only person alive to have made first ascents on two 8,000-metre peaks – Dhaulagiri and Broad Peak – and he is recognised as one of the finest chroniclers of his contemporary mountaineering scene. His books have popular around the world and his writing is guaranteed to enlighten, move and entertain.As a fantastic mountaineer and career expeditioner, and a skilled filmmaker and writer he has been a witness to 50 years of eventful Alpinism and Himalayan climbing. He gives us a link to the golden age when the 8000-metre peaks were first climbed – in the 1950s and early 60s.The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus brings together three fine books, one of which, The Endless Knot, is perhaps the most gripping and tragic mountaineering saga ever written. It describes the ill-starred K2 attempts of 1986 during which thirteen climbers died in a variety of incidents. At the end of the season seven climbers made one last bid to gain the summit, five succeeded but, overtaken by a storm during the descent, only two of the seven climbers survived. One of them was Diemberger, who describes events with harrowing candour.Summits and Secrets deals with Diemberger’s early climbs in the Alps, the Hindu Kush and the Himalaya. It describes the epoch-making first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 and the equally significant first ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1960, where he reached the summit with a Swiss team. The final book is the more relaxed Spirits of the Air, where Diemberger reflects on his varying – and often hilarious adventures – and on the contrasts between his life in Italy, Austria and the always-beckoning Himalaya.97808988660639780898866063Non-fictionen which is a collection of several books of mountaineering legend Kurt Diemberger tied together, much like The Boardman Tasker Omnibus: Savage Arena, the Shining Mountain, Sacred Summits, Everest the Cruel Way.Tasker, Joe; Boardman, Peter & Bonington, ChrisMountaineers Books1995Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker each two accomplished books which, deservedly, soon acquired classic status and became required reading for all those venturing to high altitude. It is fitting that the memorial to these two exceptional climbers and writers should take the form of the annual Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. As for their own four books, these are now reprinted for the first time in one volume. 97808988643669780898864366Non-fictionen.

Two more video finds

I seem to keep on stumbling on interesting videos. First we have this: Dru North Couloir Direct , which in its own right is pretty damn spectacular. However, then there is this coming up: Jirishanca Teaser . Apparently the full length film is coming later.

In the mean time there are some related stuff.

Double boots

In my trip to Peru I found out that my Scarpa Phantom GuideScarpaPhantom Guidehttp://www.scarpa.com/images/products/87411-210/detail.jpgRedefining mountain performance, this boot is suitable for challenging the most technical routes in cold climates, whether ice cragging or in the high mountains. are probably not quite warm enough for multi-day trips at altitude. Well, actually the problem is their lack of warmth, they are plenty warm when dry. However, the problem is that they won't be warm after the first day. And good luck trying to get them to dry when camping on the glacier. Therefore double boots are in order to maintain warmth for days in an a climb.

Fortunately gone are the days of clunky plastics. Best of the current crop of double boots are supposed to be only slightly bulkier than single boots and not much heavier either. Particularly Scarpa Scarpa Phantom 6000ScarpaPhantom 6000Phantom 6000, new model indicate for technical Himalayan mountaineering and extreme use in cold environments. No compromise in the search of innovation in warmth and lightness. looks the part when it comes to volume. According to reviews they offer good ankle lock and climbs as well as the Guides. I've read that they have flimsy inner bootie, that's not very durable. However, this shouldn't be too difficult to fix, as Palau booties can be had for reasonable price. What makes me concerned is the fit though. My Phantom Guides are 45. I'd like HA boots to be slightly larger, but apparently Scarpa makes no half sizes.

Unfortunately pretty much all of the competing models (that is to say La Sportiva BaruntseLa SportivaBaruntseWhen the conditions are cold and high the Baruntse offers a hospitable climate to keep your feet warm and dry. Ideal for use on 6-7000 meter peaks or in harsh winter conditions where you don't want to think about your feet. The thermo-formable inner boot sports the patented speed lacing system and couples with the highly insulated multi-layered PE outerboot for dependable warmth and a PU coating to keep moisture and cold outside and heat inside the boot., La Sportiva SpantikLa SportivaSpantikThe Spantik is perfect for 6-7000 meter peaks or anywhere that you need a toasty warm performance fit. This is a lighter, warmer more compact alternative to the Nuptse. It is step-in crampon compatible and provides excellent technical climbing capabilities., Boreal SiulaBorealSiulaIntense to extremely cold conditions. High mountain and altitude climbing. Long winter alpine ascents., Asolo Base Camp GVAsoloBase Camp GV, Lowa Expedition 6000 RD PLUSLowaExpedition 6000 RD PLUShttp://www.lowa.de/artikel/sehrgross/230065%207220.jpgThis proven mountaineering boot is ideal for tough, western alpine routes with mixed terrain and for expeditions in the 6,000-meter zone. The removable inner boot of quick-drying materials keeps you dry and fits perfectly. and Zamberlan 6000 Denali RRZamberlan6000 Denali RRhttp://www.zamberlan.com/upld/201203/001_6000_Denali_black_red_sml.jpgExternal gaiter made of Cordura® fabric in the upper area and Cordura®/Kevlar® in the lower area to ensure thermal insulation and abrasion resistance - Riri Storm® waterproof and UV ray resistant zip with protective cover - Inner, removable bootee sepcifically developed to grant warmth, lined in mesh for better internal ventilation - Thermal removable footbed with a PE layer for cushioning and an aluminum film for optimum insulation - Carbon fiber + fiberglass midsole ensures maximum rigidity and lightness - Vibram® sole for extended durability and grip - Zamberlan® PCS system for crampons. are either a lot bulkier, quite a bit heaver or both.

Dane of ColdThistle has written extensively on the subject of double boots, both in the form of general articles and reviews of specific models.

Mont Blanc: The Finest Routes

 Shot on 2013-08-04 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.
Shot on 2013-08-04 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.

The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes.Rebuffat, GastonMountaineers Books1996The definitive hard backed 'inspirational' guide to the Mont Blanc area, illustrated throughout. The internationally renowned Gaston Rébuffat here provides an outstandingly comprehensive step-by-step description of his 100 finest climbing routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The author begins by taking the reader up the fairly simple routes, such as the traverse from the Clocher to the Clochetons de Planpraz and the South-East arête of the Aiguille de I'Index, gradually progresses to the more difficult routes of the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Hirondelles arête on the Grandes Jorasses, and finally climaxes in the superb climbs on the Droites North Face and the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc.Each route has at least a double-page spread of text, photographs and a map of the area of the route. Rébuffat explains his reasons for choosing the individual route and then gives information on the first ascent, height, difficulty, time, equipment, starting point and an account in outline and detail of the ascent and, where necessary, the descent as well. Rébuffat's vivid and authoritative text is made even more exciting by the numerous exceptionally beautiful photographs and specially drawn maps. The translation by Drs Jane and Colin Taylor reproduces faithfully the quality and style of the original French text. Colin Taylor will already be well-known to many mountaineers as the General Editor of the Alpine Club guidebooks which include this area.08988647710898864771Guidebooken has been prime source of inspiration for many an alpinist. Now there appear to be new version out: Mont Blanc: The Finest Routes.Batoux, PhilippeVertebrate Publishing2013Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes is a collection of the 100 must-do climbing routes in the Mont Blanc Massif. Modern alpinism is a multi-faceted activity for which the Mont Blanc Massif is the perfect playground. Classic routes to which every mountaineer can aspire are surrounded by the towering rock faces, huge mixed walls, precipitous ice shields, serrated ridges and narrow gullies that define the massif's harder climbs. In order to attain these prestigious summits via the most interesting itineraries, this book presents a modern selection of 100 must-do routes, ranging from historic classics to more recent lines, described in order of increasing difficulty. Author and mountain guide Philippe Batoux provides a comprehensive account of each route, outlining its history and atmosphere and giving all the technical information needed to climb it. These written descriptions are complemented by photo diagrams and detailed topos. In addition, every route is illustrated with superbly evocative photos that make best use of the book's large format. The routes were chosen for the quality of the rock, the reliability of the in-situ gear, the beauty of the surroundings, the prestige of the summit and the enthusiasm the route inspires. Preference has been given to routes in the modern idiom, whether they are gullies that only form in winter, difficult free climbs on high-altitude cliffs, long ridge scrambles or traverses of major summits. There are routes here for all tastes, from famous classics such as the Cosmiques Ridge on the Aiguille du Midi, the American Direct on the Petit Dru, the Whymper Couloir on the Aiguille Verte, the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit to more recent gems such as Je t'ai conquis, Je t'adore on Pointe Lepiney, No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses and Le Vent du Dragon on the Aiguille du Midi.97819061486459781906148645Guidebooken haven't seen it myself yet, but I'm sure it is worthy addition to guidebook library of anyone comtemplating a visit to the area.

A collection of the 100 must-do climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif - Rebuffat for the modern age! Modern alpinism is a multi-faceted activity for which the Mont Blanc Massif is the perfect playground. Classic routes to which every mountaineer can aspire are surrounded by the towering rock faces, huge mixed walls, precipitous ice shields, serrated ridges and narrow gullies that define the massif's harder climbs. In order to attain these prestigious summits via the most interesting itineraries, this book presents a modern selection of 100 must-do routes, ranging from historic classics to more recent lines, described in order of increasing difficulty. Author and mountain guide Philippe Batoux provides a comprehensive account of each route, outlining its history and atmosphere and giving all the technical information needed to climb it. These written descriptions are complemented by photo diagrams and detailed topos. In addition, every route is illustrated with superbly evocative photos that make best use of the book's large format.

Slovak Direct

Source: . Credit: Andy Houseman,  Licensed under: Public Domain.
Source: Andy Houseman. Credit: Andy Houseman, Licensed under: Public Domain.

While browsing Vimeo I came across interesting pair of videos regarding Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock's ascent of Slovak DirectDenali6190.5mSouth faceAK6; WI6 M5/100°, 5.9/V+2700m. The route went formerly with the name "Czech Direct", but was later renamed as the FA party was indeed Slovak, not Czech.

It is very big route indeed, that has got a lot of fame as it was heavily featured in both Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High, 1st edition.Twight, Mark & Martin, JamesMountaineers Books1999* The most advanced climbing how-to on the market * Techniques and mental skills needed to climb at a more challenging level * Illustrated with full-color photos throughoutBig, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers.Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.08988665450898866545Extreme AlpinismNon-fictionen and Beyond the Mountain.House, StevePatagonia Inc2009What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? It takes raising funds for an expedition, negotiating some of the world's most dangerous countries, suffering freezing-cold bivouacs and enduring the discomforts of high altitude. It also means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. This book explores those lessons. Dubbed by Reinhold Messner, "The best high-altitude climber in the world today." Steve House's story chronicles his experiences in the worlds highest mountains, each chapter revealing a different aspect of mountaineering.97809790659589780979065958HouseBiographyen Together with Scott Backes, Twight and House made 60h non-stop ascent, that is considered milestone in fast and light style of alpinism.

The first video EpicTV Interviews: Alpinist Andy Houseman On Denali's Slovak Direct concentrate on history of the climb and personal impressions while the latter BD athlete Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock climb Denali's Slovak Direct is filled with climbing action the climbers shot themselves.

The Pursuit

New ice climbing film by Aaron Mulkey's adventures in Norway seems to be in the works and due out Fall 2013. Meanwhile they have made the trailer available though Vimeo: The Pursuit - Official Trailer Additionally, they have a video available in Youtube New ice routes in Norway with Rab athlete Aaron Mulkey .

The video centers on their FA of on Veslehorn near Hemsedal, next to famous . The route has gotten some repeats in spring 2013.

Power Shield Pro

Licensed under: Public Domain.
Licensed under: Public Domain.

On the Soft shell front, relatively new Polartec Power Shield ProPolartecPower Shield ProIn 1998 Polartec launched Polartec Power Shield and the soft shell revolution. It was developed in recognition of the fact that 90% of the time you are outside, the weather isn't that bad. So there is great benefit in giving up a little weather protection, in order to get a lot more breathability. In 2010, we are building on that product history by adding real water resistance to our soft shells with the launch of Polartec® Power Shield® Pro. Polartec® Power Shield® Pro combines never before seen levels of air permeability with durable hydrostatic resistance to keep you dry both from within and from out. After launching Polartec Power Shield Pro at the consumer level in Fall 2010, it has won numerous awards, including Outside Magazine and National Geographic Adventure "Gear of the Year" and others. looks like a very hot commodity. Unfortunately, just like is the case with Polartec NeoshellPolartecNeoshellWaterproof fabrics have forced outdoor enthusiasts to live with the restrictions of sweat, saturation, cold and overheating for too long. Introducing Polartec NeoShell. The first truly breathable, fully waterproof, temperature regulating fabric ever. Tested and proven by some of the most committed outdoor enthusiasts on the planet. With unprecedented breathability in a waterproof fabric, it's the ultimate in personal climate control., actual garments made out of it are not too plentifull. Particularly pants made out of it appear to be a rare commodity.

Upcoming 2014 models of Patagonia Knifeblade PantPatagoniaKnifeblade PantBuilt for mobility and pared-down storm-level protection with optimal breathability, the Knifeblade Pants are highly water-resistant, performance stretch soft-shell pants built with lightweight, moisture-shedding Polartec Power Shield Pro fabric. are such gear though. On the jacket front things are slightly, but not a lot, better as Patagonia Knifeblade is made out, as well as Mammut Avers Jacket MenMammutAvers Jacket Menhttps://d1qxh2iwg385ci.cloudfront.net/medias/sys_master/8812491800606/Avers_JA_basilic_bild1.eps_Zoom2.jpgThe most technical alpine Soft Shell jacket in the Mammut collection: highly functional Polartec Powershield Pro material with a cozy high-pile lining and a range of alpine features put this jacket in a class of its own when it comes to cold winter activities. and 66North Vatnajokull Men´s Softshell Jacket66NorthVatnajokull Men´s Softshell Jackethttp://www.66north.com/shop/images/Product/medium/K11167-250.jpg. Unfortunately, that's about it though.

Actually, Power Shield Pro and Neoshell looks fairly similar on paper. According to Polartec, both sport a water resistance on 10 000mm and block almost all of the wind (99,9% for Neoshell, 99% for Power Shield Pro). That being said, I have also seen a figure of 5 000mm (sometimes even 3 000mm) to be used in case on Power Shield Pro. Also Power Shield Pro garments are usually (never) not taped at seams, whereas that is pretty much the norm with Neoshell. Therefore Neoshell is considered to be truly waterproof whereas Power Shield Pro is very-damn-close to being waterproof. The latter in turn is somewhat more breathable. And both are considered far more breathable than Gore-Tex, particularly Pro shell flavour. Gore's Active garments are more breathable than Pro garments, but they generally cannot be expected to stand the abuse of alpine climbing. If Gore allowed Active shell to be laminated into sturdier fabrics, it would probably be superior product to any Gore-tex garment of the market right now. Before when they pretty much had the market for themselves they had no commercial interest for this. Now that there are several viable alternatives, it is interesting to see whether they have to rethink their policies.

Both of the Polartec fabrics (or membranes to be more exact, Power Shield Pro is membrane softshell) are stretchy. The not too dramatic difference in Water resistance and breathability aside, the main difference is that Neoshell is typically laminated into hardshell fabrics whereas Power Shield Pro always come as a softshell. This doesn't have to be like this though, as there are some garmets using Neoshell used with Softshell fabric. Why there are so few of them is a complete mystery to me, as in my book, comfort of softshell, with weather proofness of Neoshell would be a home run in the big mountains where weather proofness of softshell may be found lacking.

With both of these fabrics out on the market (albeit proper climbing-specific garments made out of them seem to be in short supply), as well as eVent eVenteVenteVenthttp://eventfabrics.com/wp-content/themes/eventfabrics/img/logo.jpgNo matter what’s happening on the outside, eVent keeps you dry inside. It’s all made possible through a state-of-the-art fabric design that helps your sweat evaporate. (which as far as I known is also marketed as Mountain Hardwear Dry.Q EliteMountain HardwearDry.Q Elitehttp://demandware.edgesuite.net/aacw_prd/on/demandware.static/Sites-MountainHardwear_INT-Site/Sites-MountainHardwear_INT-Library/default/v1381941591170/innovations/technologies/Logo-dryQElite.jpgDry.Q Elite is used in our most premium waterproof-breathable products. It offers the most comfortable level of breathability by combining high moisture-vapor transfer rates and air permeability at all body temperatures. Traditional waterproof-breathable technologies require high levels of user exertion (high body heat) before the breathability kicks in. Dry.Q Elite is instant-on technology. It starts breathing the instant you put it on, regardless of temperature or level of exertion for waterproof, windproof performance like you’ve always wanted, guaranteed. by Mountain Hardwear) old king of the hill Gore-Tex surely has their work cut out for them. In order for them to become interesting to me again they would have to figure out a way of making their membrane stretchy and allow the use of Active Shell with fabrics which are tough enough to sustain alpine abuse. Or come up with something offering at least Neoshell-level of waterprooness at similar or greater breathability. Not an easy task.

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