"Life is brought down to the basics: if you are warm, regular, healthy, not thirsty or hungry, then you are not on a mountain... Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall - it's great when you stop."

Chris Darwin

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2T on Paiju Peak

Source: . Credit: Vimeo,  Licensed under: Public Domain.
Source: . Credit: Vimeo, Licensed under: Public Domain.

At the same time I accidentally found First Ascent - Kunyang Chhish East I also tumbled upon 2T on Paiju Peak , available as 2T on Paiju Peak on Vimeo. The film covers the ascent of 2TPaiyu Peak6660mSouth side5.10d,A3, M5. I have to admit that I did not know a lot about Paiyju Peak, had just read somewhere that is is spectacular looking peak in Karakoram with very few ascents.

Turn out the peak is certainly spectacular looking: See for yourself. Given the fact that the peak is located close to access route taken virtually every team crossing Baltoro glacier one would imagine such a peak would attract plenty of climbers. Yet, the number of previous ascents turned out to be exactly one. So I figure it is safe to assume that climb must be very difficult or extremely serious. Or most likely, very much of both.

The chief protagonists of the flick are Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabala. The names may not be as heavily featured in English-speaking climbing media, but the main cast has some seriously impressive ascents under their belt including the likes of NW ridgeGasherbrum IV7925mWest FaceV, 652500m and attempt of West pillarMakalu8463mSouth side. Furthermore, Iñurrategi has completed all 14 8000ers without bottled oxygen and been nominated for Piolet d'Or (twice that I know of). Perhaps the most famous of his ascents on 8000ers are East RidgeAnnapurna I8091mEast Ridge and first undisputed ascent of SSE SpurK28611mSouth sideIII-IV, 75° (aka Cesen route). I guess it is reasonable enough to expect some cutting edge stuff.

Apparently there's also 2T on Chamlang involving the same team climbing WSW ridgeChamlang7319mSW side.

First Ascent - Kunyang Chhish East

Source: . Credit: Vimeo,  Licensed under: Public Domain.
Source: . Credit: Vimeo, Licensed under: Public Domain.

I recently stumbled on First Ascent - Kunyang Chhish East , available as First Ascent - Kunyang Chhish East in Vimeo. The topic of the flick is the first ascent of SW faceKunyang Chhish East7400mSW face by Hansjörg Auer, Simon Anthamatten and Amtthias Auer back in 2014.

Until the ascent, the peak was one of highest unclimbed peaks and also one of the most sought after objectives. The peak had send some very strong suitors back empty handed. I had no idea there was a film about the ascent.