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New weapons on the market

New modular head of Petzl 2010 lineup. The head is the same in Quark, Nomic and Ergo. This brings a long-awaited option of fitting hammers to Nomic for pounding in pitons. Credit: Ari Paulin,  Shot on 2010-10-21 Photo taken.(c) (c) 2010 Ari Paulin, licensed under: (c) 2010 Ari Paulin.
New modular head of Petzl 2010 lineup. The head is the same in Quark, Nomic and Ergo. This brings a long-awaited option of fitting hammers to Nomic for pounding in pitons. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2010-10-21 Photo taken.(c) (c) 2010 Ari Paulin, licensed under: (c) 2010 Ari Paulin.

New lineup of Petzl ice tools is on the market. See introduction including cool promotion video (available in HD).

Revamped lineup seem to be exactly what was reported earlier in several websites with the following new features/changes:

  • Once again, they have changed the pick system. This time around it actually makes sense though, as now their technical line-up (Quark, Nomic and new Ergo) use the same picks and modular head. This same system also fixes (one of) the biggest drawbacks of their excellent Nomic, the lack of hammer. I suspect that adding hammers to Nomiv will have negative effect on the swing. That being said, when the route requires pitons top be driven, you'll need a hammer, as simple as that. As the hammer is removable, it is now possible to fit it in only when needed.
  • Clever-looking slider/trigger system that can be fitted to all of the tools. Used like a very welcome addition to Quarks when using them leashless.
  • Improved trigrest. For Nomic and Ergo this means studs added to the bottom of trigrest. This surely gives better traction than current trigrest. This is not ideal in my book, as there's still no good solution to attach yourself to the tool for resting or if you want to attach spring leashes. Furthermore, such studs are most likely not as good for support as real spike (like used in Black Diamond Fusion 2nd gen). That being said, Petzl added a small hole beside trigrest. It is possible to fit thin cord through it to attach spring leashes. The hole is very small though, so it it can only take very small diameter cord (like 2mm) which probably makes it less suited for attaching yourself to it. Unless you drill a larger hole, of course. Yet, the hole in the handle works for attaching yourself to tool in case of emergency, especially if you expand it somewhat with a file. So this should still be workable solution.
  • For the Quark Petzl did exactly what I wished though, by making the spike clippable and griprest removable in case the route calls for lots of plunging.
  • Ergo is a new model targeted for extreme ice climbing, mixed and dry tooling. They look seriously funky. It would be very interesting to test how they perform in comparison to Grivel Monster. Some reports from climbers having been able test them say they are better on steep mixed than Nomic's. But so are the Monster's.

EDIT! Pommel design seems to be faulty by design in 2010/2010 version of Nomic and Ergo. See official notification by Petzl: Information concerning autumn 2010 versions of the NOMIC (ref. U21 2) and ERGO (ref. U22) ice climbing tools.

I have been anxious to get new Ice picks to fit them into my well-beaten pair of old Nomics in order to be able to attach hammers as well. Unfortunately Petzl has failed to deliver them. So recall of new line of tools and failure to deliver new picks in one season; doesn't seem to be a very good season for Petzl ice tools.

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