Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna.Mountaineers Books2001Frenchman Lionel Terray is one of mountaineering history's greatest alpinists, and his autobiography, Conquistadors of the Useless, stands among the "100 Greatest Adventure Books of All Time", according to National Geographic Adventuremagazine. Following World War II, when France desperately needed successes to heal its wounds, Terray emerged as a national hero, conquering summits atop the planet's highest mountains.This biography of Lionel Terry is filled with first-time feats and acts of bravery in the face of unspeakable odds. He climbed with legends such as Maurice Herzog, Gaston Rebuffat, and Louis Lachenal. He made first ascents in the Alps, Alaska, the Andes, and the Himalaya. Terray's gripping story captures the energy of an optimistic world shaking off the restraints of war and austerity. It's a mountaineering classic.9780898867787 by Lionel Terray seems to have gotten extremely positive reviews. Being listed as one of National Geographic Adventure 's 100 Greatest Adventure Books of All Time is probably already good enough reason to read it. However, perhaps the most glowing review was that made by Explore magazine : "If my library was to somehow catch fire and I could only save one book, the long out of print Conquistadors of the Useless, by Lionel Terray, would be it."
Terray is probably best known for his role in the first ascent of French routeAnnapurna I8091mNorth face in 1950 (he did not summit) and in the first ascent of French routeMakalu8463mNW side. However, his routes on somewhat lower peaks, particularly SE faceFitzroy3440mSouth sideED-; 50-60°, VI+,A2/VII+300m/6 pitches of ice + 650m/14 pitches of rock, SE ridgeJannu7711mSouth side and Arista NEChacraraju Este6001mEast sideED2800m, 1 day may be even more important as they represented the absolute cutting edge of difficulty climbed at altitude at the time.
- Terray, Lionel: Conquistadors of the Useless - From the Alps to AnnapurnaFrom the archive, 4 October 1963: Conquistadors of the useless. Paddy Monkhouse reviews a book full of beauty and adventure from the great French climber, Lionel Terray. By Paddy Monkhouse at The Guardian on 1963.
- Terray, Lionel: Conquistadors of the Useless - From the Alps to AnnapurnaConquistadors of the Useless. This is a book which should fascinate anyone who is interested in mountaineering. M. Terray is surely one of the great climbers of this day or any other and it is our good luck that his skills are not limited to the mountains. By James P. McCarthy at American Alpine Journal on 1963.
- The Best Mountain Book Ever Written. Well, they asked for it, proposing a panel with such an ex cathedra title as "The Best Mountain Book Ever Written." So it wasn’t surprising when Katie Ives, editor of Alpinist and the panel’s moderator, launched the discussion by calling it “a utopian and elusive project.”. By David Roberts at The Active Times on 2012-11-15.
- Terray, Lionel: Conquistadors of the Useless - From the Alps to AnnapurnaConquistadors Of The Useless. At GoodReads.