"Just before the rocks separating the Second from the Third Ice-field, I looked back, down our endless ladder of steps. Up it I saw the New Era coming at express speed; there were two men running - and I mean running, not climbing - up it." With these words describes Heinrich Harrer the significance of the modern crampons during the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger.
I recently tumbled on an interesting article about the Nut Museum, which contained quite a bit of information about the development of trad pro. As it was interesting read, I though to throw together some pointers to various articles describing the history and development of climbing gear.
- Nut Museum. "A long, long time ago, when God created our good old earth, He had already thought to throw various stones into the bowels of the mountains, but we are not sure that God had demonstrated some interest in rock-climbing. So the idea of deliberately placing stones in cracks to act as chocks and protect climbers was credited to Morley Wood during the ascent of Piggot's Climb on Clogwyn du'r Arddu (North Wales) in 1926. With this fundamental gesture the Nuts' Story began!" By Stéphane Pennequin.
- Ice axes. At Grivel.
- The crampons. At Grivel.
- How crampons changed mountaineering. By Sam Roberts at eastern Mountain Sports.
- The Evolution of Crampons. By Sam Roberts at Spadout.
- The Cam Book. Friends and other SLCD (spring loaded camming devices) have always been difficult to understand at the best of times - and to the uninitiated they can be a nightmare. Thats why in 2002 Wild Country published 'The Cam Book' - and in depth look at Friends and cams in all their forms and the principles that guided their development, and guides their operation and use. This book was immensely popular, combining a bit of science with a lot of common sense about using one of the most essential pieces of equipment ever made - the Friend. So click below to download your copy and learn a lot more about how to use (rather than abuse) these brilliant protection pieces.... At Wild Country.