I've tumbled on few interesting articles recently, mainly on trad climbing.
- Rock Secrets: Tricks For Advanced Trad Climbing. Trad climbing is different to sport climbing in a number of fundamental respects: you will not generally be climbing as physically hard as you would be when sport climbing, although the total amount of energy you expend during the day could be far greater (particularly if you’re climbing on a mountain crag or sea cliff with long approaches). A large number of skills are required for advanced trad climbing that are either not required - or very seldom required - for sport climbing. By Dave Pickford at PlanetFear on 2009-06-08.
- The PlanetFear Guide To Extending Gear. Extending protection correctly on the lead is an absolutely vital skill to both trad and sport climbing. In this article we explain why, where, and how gear should bve extended. By planetFear at PlanetFear on 2009-06-22.
- Handjams Are Your Friends: Crack Technique. "The key to pure crack climbing, as with every type of climbing, is the feet. I like to start from the basics, which with cracks, is the hand crack. Hand cracks are the nicest, easiest thing you can climb, so you can focus on body position and movement technique, rather than the more precise jamming. If you have never done a handjam, it will feel alien and bizarre at first, but just slide your hand straight into the crack, and flex it, especially the meaty area under your thumb. It will stick, and that’s a handjam. I always say, if I fall out of a handjam, I deserve it :-) , so I tend to run it out if I’m in solid handjams." By Steph Davis at High Places.
- Trad climbing techniques, tricks, & tips. Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips. By Rick at Cremnomaniacs on 2009-06-12.
- The PlanetFear Guide To Route Reading. Perhaps the most important non-physical technique that will improve your onsight climbing is route reading skill. Practicing it doesn’t require an exhausting training programme. In fact, it requires no physical effort whatsoever. And nor will you need any equipment other than your own eyes – and maybe a note pad and pencil, or a pair of binoculars if you’re feeling keen. By planetFear at PlanetFear on 2009-07-13.